John, did you grow up in Baraboo? Is it possible that your ill feelings about DL are not so much about the climbing but about deeper personal issues dealing with your formative years?

That is funny Anita, no. My feelings are strictly climbing related. Is it so hard to believe that someone could climb at Devil's Lake and not like it???

No John, it's not so hard to believe that you don't like climbing at DL. It's just that you are so vociferous about it that I'm just wondering what the underlying issues are.

The underlying issues:

When I lived in Wisconsin, most of my partners LOVED Devil's Lake. They crooned over it. I hated it, but what else is there to do? It is better than nothing. Hanging out in Madison and Milwaukee, the climbers that I would meet thought that climbing was cool, tough, and macho. Basically, they were a bunch of wankers. I hated that scene. I hate toproping. When I think about Devil's lake, I don't see great lines on rock, I see wankers toproping and rappelling. Not rappelling for a reason, mind you. Rappelling because it is a tough, cool, macho thing to do.

I better go talk to my therapist.

Thank you. I understand now where you're coming from.

John, I am wondering where you climb locally. Your profile says Salt Lake...do you climb at Little and Big Cottonwood?

Hey Jay & John, do you guys have jobs or are you a couple of slackers? I think it's kind of funny that many of the people posting in this forum live a full day's drive from the Lake (myself included). The Lake must have some quality to it! Although I am much happier climbing at the City or Fisher Towers, the Lake has its own feel, and if you hated toproping so much, John, why didn't you simply choose to only lead routes? When I think of good days at the Lake, most of my memories are of leading, bouldering, or drinking! cheers

I am a slacker and have a job. Spring break and Red Rocks is almost here. Sitting at work, looking for an escape. Arguing about Devil's Lake.

How's the weather in salt lake? any snow in little cottonwood? Red rocks? what; why?

I agree about the desert this time of year; i've been down there 3 times so far in the last 2 months. but why red rocks? there are so many more esthetic places to climb like the swell, canyonlands, fishers, zion, etc. i guess i just don't like masses of people.

I just got back from the Swell this weekend.

You don't like Red Rocks?! Now there is a forum discussion (ha,ha.) Dissing Devil's Lake is one thing, dissing Red Rocks?

The real answer is that it is always a matter of compromise between partners. When people ask if I want to go to Red Rocks, I have a hard time saying no. It is one of my favorite places to climb. But I agree, I love the Colorado Plateau more.

It was us who tried the Pillsbury building. It was 40 stories, but we only made it 17 floors before the cops took out a window and grabbed us. We were able to negotiate with the Pillsbury executives to NOT press charges if we came in, otherwise it would have gotten very ugly with criminal tresspassing charges, etc.... It was the first week of December and as it was the North face the winds were really high. I think the windchill was around -20, so the warm coffee and no jail time was sounding pretty good. We did however smoke our single "J" we brought with 10 feet from the window before climbing in, as we did not want it on us. They didn't seem to care much, as we already had our "deal" to come in.

Jim, Do you remember the Oops Trail?

Amazing. Rudy you're still alive!? I figured you must have died in a fiery auto accident. Excellent placard, that is a classic. Didn't you head out to MT in a black VW bug? As I recall it had an ice axe firmly embedded in it's hood. You can find exploits of Russell on supertopos.com. Just search for "funny things said by Billy Russell" under the forums. His new name's Swilliam but he's too toasted to actually say anything humorous though. You disappeared after a couple of years up at the lake.. I heard high tell that you were going off to become a pharmacist in order to prescribe yourself copious amounts of f*knez, thereby getting yourself totally and amazingly JACKED!!!

Duke of Puke
(retired)

I am alive and well, although my best climbing years are long in the past. I did have an ice axe plunged through the 66 volkswagen as well as DLFA scrawlings of perpetual jackness. I have been looking to find the original and true DLFA President Tom Deuchler. We last climbed together at Devils lake back in the early '90's. We also made an unsuccessful attempt up the 40 story Pillsbury building, but got nabbed at the 17th floor. Where has all the original DLFA gone? I seek to reunite the team for a summer DLFA jackness festival where we can rehash some of the crazy stories and renew our memberships by swigging down some cold ones while standing on our head! All those interested or having contacts - see rudolph@doall.com for details

Hard to tell where the Co-co Prince of F*Knez is. Last I heard he was living in a trailer in the deep dark recesses of the Lake's forests, with a 357 by the door. I'd guess Pete might know.

There have been past attempts at repeating the 10 Days of F*knez, but it's a hard one to get those in CO or CA to go back. There's too many other things to do. But those out there already now should give it an honest go, yet most are old washed up farts now. Bechler and Moir are out there, Sime's out there but unable to drink and under close watch. Lemons.. heck.. who knows, but he did make it into the forward of the latest guide book of Eldo. It seems most others have been assimilated. Too bad from my point of view. K. Guy is an alcholic with a bad back. Drug machine Steve still climbs hard out here though... one of the few. And Russell ( the self proclaim Prez ) I think now spends most of his time leading nubiles up 5.8s for a living. Could be worse. As you know.. "If at first you don't succeed to hump and buck 'em.. get 'em on all 4s and ..."

Well.. this hombre is off to the Tetons for the off season for a week. Where you living now these days Rudy? I like CO myself, other than working.

-DoP
(retired)

Oh.. and one of the twisted sisters is living out this way here now too I believe. So's Beth Wald.. Tommy's old .. ah.. yea.

Rudatis! Swine Frickin Von Hurlig - hoop hoop! (UGH!!!!! (for Tom))
When's the reunion? I asked about the old clubbers once when I was back at the Lake in the early 1990s - it sounded like most were either dead, in jail or insane. That sounded about right to me.

Tom - "Have fun or get hurt bad!" I have not heard anyone but me say that for twenty years. What was your brother's name? Rod was a clubber I used to climb with who was studying to be a pharmacist - his stated goal was for all the better drugs.

I've climbed lots of places since I started in the early 1970s - but Devils Lake will always be my favorite. Climbing is not just about the area or the size of the climb. The attitude of the Devils Lake clubbers in the 70s and early 1980s made for very high standards of climbing - measured against anyone, anywhere.

Bruce,
It was great to hear from you. Do you know what ever happened to some of the other Taylors Falls regulars, like Dan Grady who was a muscular blonde guy with tatoos. He hung out with a guy that had straight dark hair and glasses. They both pulled down hard.
What about old Gary, who was with the Minnesota Rovers?
The Midwest Mountaineering boys?
Margaret, the strong little lady of TF?
Scott Backus went on to some extreme mountaineering with the likes of Twight and House.

jackness now, jackness forever, jackness for the revolution!

have fun or get hurt bad.

th

Is anyone.. ANYONE.. walking the fine line of FUKNEZ! now??

Puke to bleed with Lou Reed!

I have never swayed in my DLFA inspired attitude towards climbing, and life in general.
Jackness Now. Jackness Forever. Jackness for the Revolution!
Drink to Puke. Puke to Bleed. Bleed Intensely.

Have fun or get hurt bad.

th

Jim,
The last I heard, Tommy was living in a trailer in the Green Valley campground, just across from the Ski Hi Apple orchard. He was picking apples at the orchard and doing other odd jobs. I even heard a rumor that he was teaching climbing to young nubiles, but that rumor has not yet been confirmed.

There used to be an annual DLFA get together every July or August, but I have not heard of anything this year.

As for those trail markers, I always thought it was Rich who creatively enhanced them.

When did the rat transform into a pessamead? I guess I stumbled into the club a little late (early 80's) because by then the pessamead had taken over. Could it be that a pessamead is simply a rat on jackness?