Heading north to Gooseberry Falls State park next weekend 10/14/09.

So far the Silver Creek Tunnel climb looks promising. Are there any other climbs in the area that are a must?

I would stay away from Silver Creek Tunnel. I have not climbed there myself but I have heard from several people it is a waste of time. I would just keep going up to Palisade, its only another 20 min.

Thanks for the heads up, we'll probably skip that then.

It looks like Shovel point would be better suited to our needs, since we don't have trad gear at the moment. Is this this a correct assumption?

"statepark placed anchors" can anyone expand on this?

The state anchors are like bolts placed on sport routes but are about 40 times bigger. no joke. they have 3 foot long bolts cemented into the rock with hangers that could support a tank. you'll need some webbing and carabiners and some of the routes still require you to use trees for anchors.

The park anchors are way overkill but nice. Tettegouche hired somebody to design some type of fixed anchor and this is what they came up with.

Thanks PKA, sounds perfect.

We got back late Friday night, gotta love workin' the weekends.. Thanks for the help on deciding where to climb!

Thursday was a brutal morning, we woke up to wet gear due to a malfunction with our tent / user error..

I stayed dry, even though I was sleeping in a puddle.

We got out late to the Dance of the Sugar-Plump Faeries route and got a couple of climbs in before nightfall. We then spent the night at the laundramat, fun times.

Next day was beutiful excpet for another late start. The state park placed anchors made it too easy to just head back to "the Dance."

When I was getting lowered down for my first climb an eagle soared underneath me, amazing experience.

We saw a wolf and a fox too, we plan on heading back to climb more of the north shore once we gather some trad gear.

I recall doing a bit of moderate highball bouldering in the vicinity of the falls proper.
If memory serves, the rock os a bit mossy and greasy, but some fun moves and eliminates can be found.

Tom: are you talking about the area under/near the bridge at Tettegouche SP?

We did a bit of bouldering there too. Very mossy and flakes came off left and right.