County might turn over responsibility for Gibraltar Rock to DNR

By Craig Sauer, Daily Register

The Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources might become the new steward of the Columbia County landmark Gibraltar Rock, pleasing residents and an environmental group that said the county has had a spotty record on maintaining the site.

The rock formation, a 200-foot-high sandstone bluff located near Lodi in the town of West Point, has been abused as a party spot, and officials hope transferring control to the state's primary environmental agency will help maintain its integrity.

"The county has done sort of an up-and-down job of managing or not managing the park," said Bill Welch, co-president of Friends of Scenic Lodi Valley, a group of volunteers that takes on various environmental projects in the area. "We would like to see it managed better and more attention given to it. It has an incredible ecosystem, which has been neglected and overused at times."

Gibraltar Rock and about 40 acres of surrounding Richmond Memorial Park likely would be combined with an additional 90 acres the DNR recently acquired from an adjacent landowner, according to DNR Program Supervisor Rich Evans.

Evans said if the DNR controlled the site, it could help foster public utilization of the property that has "unique views, plant life and geological features."

The DNR has no major plans for development, Evans said, but improving the site's restroom facilities and including better signage would be on the to-do list. Preliminary plans could also have the site staffed three to four days a week during the summer months, he said.

"I think having a presence there will curtail some of the (illegal) late-night activities," Evans said. "We've had a lot of support from the county, the town of West Point and the Friends of Scenic Lodi Valley."

According to Columbia County Land and Water Conservation Director Kurt Calkins, the county sent the DNR a formal notice of its interest in negotiating the transfer of the property and said the DNR would better be suited to manage the property.

Calkins, the county corporation counsel and DNR staff and attorneys met last week to begin negotiating the terms.

If the land were transferred into the state's trust, it would make Columbia County eligible to receive a payment in lieu of taxes, which occurs on all state-owned land. Part of the deal could include returning those funds to the DNR.

"We decided those funds should be earmarked back to the DNR for management of the property," Calkins said. "I think it is a good offer to them because it helps them offset their operating expenses — and it is money we really never had anyways."

Initial concerns about deed restrictions on the land, on behalf of the families, would not be a problem, Calkins said.

A park incorporating the area around the rock formation was first established in the early 20th century by a preservation group called Friends of Our Native Landscape.

It was deeded to the preservation group as Richmond Memorial Park, in memory of James and Emma Richmond and some of the other first families to settle the area.

Eventually ownership was transferred to Columbia County and it was designated a state natural area in 1969.

Over the years, a controversial paved road was installed by the county to provide easier access to the top of the bluff, which was later blocked off because of concerns that it contributed to illegal activities there.

A 21-year-old man died from falling from the top of the bluff after a night of drinking with friends in 2001.

The site has also been coveted by rock climbers, but county officials have denied attempts to open it up for that use, citing liability concerns.

Evans said opening up the rock to climbing was unlikely.

"What I have been told is there are a lot of fragile places on the bluff. I don't anticipate that it will be open to climbing. If they want to climb, they can come to Devil's Lake State Park," Evans said.

Evans and the staff that would look over the Gibraltar Rock area are based out of the DNR's Devil's Lake office.

Once the county puts its intentions to deed the land over to the state, the DNR's policy board and the Natural Resources Board will have to accept the proposal. If the plans make it through that step, Evans said, the agency would look at developing a master plan for the future of the park and how it can best be utilized.

Welch said that his organization has expressed interest in helping to maintain the site. He said they would apply to the DNR to enter its friends program, opening up stewardship money for their utilization, possibly targeting the restoration of prairie and the removal of invasive species.

Calkins said initial feedback on the idea has been positive.

"I think that the process is moving along," he said. "I have heard some very positive things from the people down in Lodi and the West Point area. They are excited to see it happening. They think it is a good thing."

csauer@capitalnewspapers.com

745-3514
Craig Sauer / Daily Register

Even in the winter, local landmark Gibraltar Rock brings curious visitors to its summit to take in its breathtaking views of Columbia County.

ACCESS: From Lodi, go north on state Highway 113 four miles, then west on County V one mile, then south on the Park Road 0.2 mile to a parking area. Walk south through the gated access and upslope 0.3 mile into the site. DESCRIPTION: Gibraltar Rock is a sandstone bluff, an outlier of the Black River escarpment with a thin Platteville-Galena dolomite cap over St. Peter sandstone. Located near the Wisconsin River the bluff rises 400 feet above Lake Wisconsin to the north and contains cliff and cedar glade communities. On the south is a sheer 200-foot cliff overlooking a large leather-leaf bog and scenic valley. The soils are thin, glaciated sandy loams. A major portion of the site is a dry-mesic forest dominated by red oak and basswood. Cliff communities are mostly open and harbor several species of ferns, pale corydalis, columbine and cliff goldenrod. On the bluff top is an area dominated by red cedar. The understory has a large component of dry prairie species including big and little blue-stem, side-oats grama, prairie drop-seed, blue-eyed grass, bird's-foot violet, pasque flower, prairie smoke, lead-plant, bergamot, whorled milkweed, goldenrods and asters. The site is used by migrating raptors, which catch thermals formed by the warm cliff face. ? Source: Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources Web site, dnr.wi.gov.

Isn't the area around the bluff currently a county park, but the rock itself designated as a State Natural Area?
www.dnr.state.wi.us/org/land/er/sna/sna73.htm

And a guideline for SNA's
-"Rock climbing and rappelling are prohibited, except at East Bluff and Dalles of the St. Croix SNAs."

So I guess they'd have to change it's SNA designation, or add a third exception to the climbing rule. Gibraltar Rock is a very cool area... I can only hope it's reopened.

There's some good history of Gibraltar in "Baraboo, Dells, and Devil's Lake Region" by H.E. Cole (4th Ed. 1929)

If Gibralter had been open to climbing at the time those rules about State Natural Areas were made (not that long ago, to me), it would certainly have been another exception. The intent at the time was to leave open SNAs with a significant history of climbing, and just close other SNAs to *new* exploration.

There was no good way for the DNR to make an exception for Gibralter while the County had the rock closed - it would have just been rude!

I think Jason H has it right when he says that anglers and hunters would *never* be treated so cavalierly. We need to let the DNR know that we are still here, we are still interested in climbing at Gibralter, and we're happy to help them figure out how to manage climbing so that no endangered species are hurt.

If we had to pull the bolts on one or two routes in order to protect rare ferns, I think the majority of us would think that was a good deal.

Has any body been up to Gibraltar Rock lately? The rare ferns are gone for the most part. They have been choked out by the insidious garlic mustard. The garlic mustard has for the most part taken the whole cliff exposure over. There has never been a concerted effort to keep it out of there. I am not an expert but I wonder if it would have even been possible? Too bad. I remember going there many years ago and seeing a whole lot of ferns and thinking - wonderful... It is sad but maybe it makes the arguement for "No Climbing" because of rare fern species kind of a non-issue??

I am starting a petition for reopening Gibralter to climbers. Please contact me so I can put your name on this list. We need all the help we can get.

Here is a link to view the petition. Please feel free to make suggestions on verbage.

vivmaster.orionweb.net/Gibralter/Petition-for-Gibraltor-Rock>>>

Gibraltar Rock’s Future Discussed

By Charlie Luthin

On Earth Day, Tuesday April 22nd, Friends of Scenic Lodi Valley hosted an event at the Lodi Woman’s Club Library to discuss the future of Gibraltar Rock and ways that the community can become involved in different activities there.

Rich Evans, Department of Natural Resources (DNR) Regional Parks and Trails Manager (formerly Devils Lake Park Superintendent), spoke to a crowd of almost 30 individuals. He shared the recent history of Gibraltar Rock, including state purchase of 92 acres from Don Horton (2006-07) and transfer of 55.5 acres from Colombia County to State ownership (2007). Of the total 147.5 acres, approximately 68 acres are currently designated as a “State Natural Area” that affords this component of the property extra protection from certain activities due to its ecological and geological importance.

Mr. Evans explained that the DNR will undergo a formal “master planning” process for the entire property that will take into consideration future uses, management needs and probable inclusion of the Ice Age Trail. gibraltar rock photoThrough the planning process, decisions will be made regarding whether there will be an entrance fee required and what infrastructure, if any, will be constructed on the property. At the least, Evans mentioned, there will be simple restroom facilities constructed near the parking lot. Citizen input into the planning process will be welcome.

In early 2008, Friends of Scenic Lodi Valley applied for and received formal “friends group” status for Gibraltar Rock from DNR. Many state parks around Wisconsin have volunteer “friends” groups that offer assistance with trails, help raise funding, control invasive plants, provide various services and engage in other activities. Mr. Evans offered recommendations for projects a friends group could get involved with at Gibraltar Rock, using the Friends of Devils Lake as an example. That group boasts an endowment of over $300,000 and membership of 350, with at least 20 very active volunteers. The Friends of Devils Lake, for example, hosts “candlelight hikes,” sells treats and generates grants to raise funds for needs at the Park, organizes plant and wildlife surveys and helps with park maintenance needs.

Following Evans’ talk, there was discussion about things that area citizens can do at Gibraltar Rock. Dan Pertzborn, a Lodi high school student, was recognized for his very informative video production about Gibraltar Rock and for his generous contribution (over $600) of proceeds from the sale of that video to Friends of Scenic Lodi Valley for use at Gibraltar Rock. The “Gibraltar Rock Team” of Friends of Scenic Lodi Valley will help collect historic and cultural materials about the location, plan “citizen science” activities, and help steward the site by clearing invasive species—most notoriously garlic mustard—from the property.

On Thursday, May 29th, 11am, DNR is planning a formal public event to celebrate the addition of Gibraltar Rock to the Wisconsin State Park system. The Governor has been invited to this event at both Gibraltar Rock and West Point Town Hall. More information will be provided as details become available.

Citizens interested in being informed about activities pertaining to Gibraltar Rock should contact Charlie Luthin at 592-4326 or charluthin@verizon.net.

Posted 4/30/08 on www.lodivalleynews.com/

Apparently the property was transfered to the State last year! They didn't give it much publicity.

Note the dedication of our newest State park on 29 May - I'm sorry I'm going to be out of town, but it would be wonderful if a big contingent of rock climbers was on hand. It's the perfect opportunity for some street theater showing our interest. Nothing too in-your-face, but something showing our interest and enthusiasm.

This is also the perfect time to begin petitions. John, I would expand what you have written, and especially mention the long history of climbing at Gibraltar (back to the 1960s). You should sent it to the Devils Lake Supt. Evans, to the South-Central Region Director, and to Dan Schuller, the new Wisconsin State Park System Director. If you get lots of signatures (include mine) you should also release it to the media: Baraboo New Republic, Isthmus, Wisconsin State Journal, Milwaukee Journal-Sentinel.

Exciting; sign me up. Gibralter was one of the early places I learned to trad climb. I have great memories of climbing there; quiet, great rock, and nice out of the way location. lets all keep our fingers crossed and hope that the park system begins to view the climbing community as a responsible user group and stewards of the land.- E. Barnard

This is looking good guys. Thx for the info.

Doug,

Can you provide me with some verbage about the rich climbing history as Gibralter. I am new to climbing, only got 1.5 seasons behind me. I don't know that much about the history. Just that it was open to climbing before.

Everyone, I need help with the verbage. Please provide any suggestions, additions, etc....

I also have contacted Charlie Luthin in regards to the event and what I can do. I will keep you posted.

Please add my name to the petition as well.

Rob Riggleman

Thx James. I really appreciate that.

I would like to be included in any petition for getting rock-climbing allowed as a legit land use at Gibralter Rock as well.

I will be planning on attending the formal public event and it would be great if we were organized as a interested group as Doug states. It would have the most impact.

Burton Lindquist

Bob, I also plan on being at the event. Let's get as many of us together as possible and see what happens.

The event starts next week thursday at 11am. 5/29/08

Lets get some sort landmark for us all to meet at. Anyone know the area?? Should I carry a sign that says "CLIMBERS" just kidding.....

Thoughts?

Please add my name also
Jon Jugenheimer

Excellent, sign my name on the petition.
I would suggest to everyone not to go out there and start clippin bolts just yet. This is going to be a sensitive issue. Rich was very unresponsive to me when I tried to contact him about a service project at DL and I suspect he will continue on the same path unless forced with a decision. The petition is a great idea and I will let everyone I know about the ceremony.
To be continued........
Rhoads
608.332.3773
Wisconsin Outdoor Access

Sign me up! This is great news! Gibralter will make a fine addition to our State Parks, and hopefully we can get the access issues all cleared up.
Adam Remus

Please add my name to the list. Thanks for all your hard work.

Adam Van Straten

Thank you all. Keep the signatures coming. Anyone who supports this should sign, friends, family etc...... We have 20 signatures so far.

Like Nick said, please don't go out there and start climbing yet. It still doesn't seem legal and it would only hurt our chances of ever getting it back. Let our presence be known at the ceremony and with the petition.

I will be bringing the petition around Devil's Lake in a week or so. Hopefully that will fill it with signatures.

I'll keep you all updated.

As for meeting up at the ceremony, we still need to figure out a way to find eachother. Maybe we can all clip a carabiner to our belt loop so it is visible. Ideas??

I've been in contact with the Person in charge of Gibralter Rock, Charlie Luthin. He seems very nice. I told him I wanted to get together a group of climbers (volunteers) to help eradicate the garlic mustard from G-Rock. He said he was very intrigued to hear that and it has been on his mind for sometime now. I think this is one of our best opporunities to show that we care more than most about this great place and we are willing to work for it.

Here is some great info for how to control the garlic mustard.

www.ipm.msu.edu/garlicMge.htm

www.ipaw.org/invaders/garlic_mustard/gm.htm

www.ci.brookfield.wi.us/DocumentView.asp?DID=333


Please contact me if you are interested in volunteering. I figured a few weekends of cleaning, and that might gain us access to the area. And if we always make a point to kill every plant we see, even when hiking and climbing, we can continue to show we are here to help. As soon as I get enough volunteers together, I will set a date with everyone and contact Charlie to coordinate the effort.

Here is the info on the event.

The event is scheduled for Thursday, May 29, 2008, at 11:00 a.m. at the base of Gibraltar Rock. After a short program and remarks, we will transport (or you can walk) participants to the top of Gibraltar Rock to enjoy the beautiful landscape and overview. The day's celebration will conclude with refreshments at the West Point Town Hall.

So I will see you all at the base of G-Rock at 11am. WOOHOO!!! I will have my carabiner on!

ps. After the event, seeing as we will all be in the climbing area, how bought going to DL afterwords and getting in some afternoon climbing. I will have my gear in my truck. Climb on!

Good idea about getting efforts together to try and beat back the GM scourge. I am skeptical it can all be gotten rid of but I will certainly volunteer my body to help out and try and perhaps succeed.

Burt Lindquist

The main point about trying to get rid of the GM plant is to show we care and we are willing to work for our climbing area.

Are you going to be at the ceremony Burt??

Here's some history from the late 60s/early 70s, when the Hoofers were doing a lot of exploring there:


(Photo from Jay Stewart's collection/website.)

Those of you who climb at Boulders may have met Dave Erikson, of "Dave's Dive" fame?

Yes John. I am planning on going to that event next week. I am arranging to take the day off from work so climbing afterwards is a great idea. I also know quite well your greater intentions of gaining support for climbing by clearing the GM investation. I totally agree.

Here are some references wrt the legal status of rock climbing in Wisconsin:
www.legis.state.wi.us/rsb/code/nr/nr001.pdf
www.legis.state.wi.us/rsb/code/nr/nr045.pdf