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Clean Aid at Palisade Head

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By Travis Hibbard
Jul 5, 2007
El Matador

Hi, I've looked around online and have the WI/MN guidebook for Palisade and can't seem to find the info i'm looking for. Does anyone know of any routes that would be good practice for multi-pitch clean aid? Mainly looking for C2- or less and was wondering if there was anything up there that could be done multipitch at that grade? Thanks for any help

By Doug Hemken
From Madison, WI
Jul 6, 2007
At the crux of McCarthy West Face var.<br /><br />Photo by Jon Jugenheimer

Look for a copy of the old blue guide by David Pagel, "Superior Climbs" (1984). Try interlibrary loan.

Or head for Devils Tower. Lots of great clean aid there, easier than what you were just doing in Yosemite. Look in John Harlin's "Climber's Guide to North America: Rocky Mountain Climbs" (1985) for some ideas. Or find a copy of the old Bonney & Bonney "Guide to the Wyoming Mountains and Wilderness Areas" (1977) for even more ideas. Bonney won't give you clean ratings, but he'll give you an idea of what routes were once commonly done as aid.

We're a little off the beaten track out here, so you may have to make it up as you go along!

By Travis Hibbard
Jul 6, 2007
El Matador

Thanks for the info Doug, I figured I might need to do some more research. I'll have to check out those guidebooks.


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