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YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jack Marshall
Page Views: 1,496
Submitted By: ccross on May 5, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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"Midway". Photo by Blitzo.


The crux right off the deck at a hueco and is well protected by the first bolt. The moves to get past this hueco (for me) were pretty dynamic and bouldery. Just go for it, it is well protected. Everything above the hueco is moderate in comparison.


Right of Left Flank.



Photos of Midway Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux; rest of the route is pleasantly sustaine...
The crux; rest of the route is pleasantly sustaine...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lindseys unfortunately couldn't make it go.
Lindseys unfortunately couldn't make it go.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bolt Locations
BETA PHOTO: Bolt Locations

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By Adam Kimmerly
Apr 19, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Notably harder (probably closer to the given grade) for shorter climbers unable to reach the good left hand hold at the crux bulge.
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Aug 22, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Midway in the Southern California Guide to Sport Climbing is the climb to the right of this one - the one that starts to the left of the dirty chimney. I think this climb is "make a way" rated at 5.10a. The moves on Midway were much more sustained than this climb; this climb has really just the lower crux, which I would rate at 5.10a/b. The moves at the crux are very sequential, and if you get the sequence wrong could make the climb seem harder... Once you figure out the sequence, the bottom crux isn't too hard (solid 5.10 a/b), and very well protected. Lead both climbs.
By Rick Gould
Dec 11, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

I HAD to climb this, if nothing else, due to the fact that I was stationed on the USS Midway (CV-41) in the late 80's/early 90's.

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