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Castle Rock
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No Such Thing as a Free Lunge T 
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Midway 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Fred Beckey, Wes Grande, Jack Schwabland, 1948.
Page Views: 4,226
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
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Coming up the first pitch

Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb the chimney on the right side of Jello Tower. Step across then right to a wide crack to the top.

Protection 

Pro to 2"


Photos of Midway Slideshow Add Photo
Kristin, on the wide / polished p
Kristin, on the wide / polished p
The first pitch of Midway (5.5) starts in the corn...
BETA PHOTO: The first pitch of Midway (5.5) starts in the corn...
Reaching the top of the second pitch
Reaching the top of the second pitch

Comments on Midway Add Comment
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By Steve Wolford
Aug 23, 2009

This is a great traditional free solo.
By Ed kelly
Jul 30, 2013

A fun historic climb. Pretty straightforward climbing with mostly good pro. I thought the direct version was a little better. At least when I was there it was impossible to hear your partner on the final pitch, even splitting it into 3 pitches trying to avoid just that issue. So have a plan in place. Beautiful view, very cool if the salmon are running and you can see them in the river 100's of feet below you.
By rohanbk
Sep 8, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

The crux of the first pitch comes near the top where you need to transition from a really nice ledge to stemming between two walls with polished holes. It took me a couple mins to psyche myself up, but I was able to get a tiny cam into one of the horizontal cracks before being able to reach and clip a piton wedged in one of the cracks. Fun climbing!
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
May 20, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Midway holds the distinction of being the first "modern" crag pitch in Wa.In 1948- 1960's this was considered 5.4. When Fred did this a couple of years ago he thought it was hard, maybe 5.7.The first pitch is pretty slippery, but if you use chimney technique and find the stemming mid way and chimney out the exit it is a lot easier.
Climbers seem to get lost on the 2nd pitch, it could be done in at least 3 different ways, all about the same grade and gear. The original line after crossing the void follows some old pins that can be hard to spot till on a big ledge, about 100', here is the improbable looking right trending traverse with a ring pin. It looks harder then 5.5, might be 5.7, but turns out to be easier then it looks. keep lower on the traverse to find pro till in wide gully like corner, follow this out veering right on ramp like crack to boulders at top.
By Josh Golden Eagle
Jul 8, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

We used #4 cam on pitch 1. Some people might prefer having a 2nd #4 cam for 1st pitch.
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