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Start in the same right-facing corner as Incline Club and Disinclination.
The start can be done with all gear or by clipping the first three bolts of Incline Club, until that climb peels right out onto the slab while Midway follows the crack straight up. If an all-gear ascent is desired, it is possible to climb the right side of the arÍte, placing gear in cracks along the way. Once the slab is reached, have a ball!
The gear is great and the position is airy. The crack could use another 100 ascents, as there is some vegetation and loose rock, but nothing too annoying. The starting arÍte or the last dihedral at the top may be the crux, otherwise, you will find easy, protectable 5.4 climbing along the crack. At the top of the crack, set up a belay among the huge boulders, rocks and trees on the flat upper ledge.
To descend, walk climber's right to the top of Incline Club. There is an easily accessible large ledge with two bolts and another set of bolts just below that is the anchor for Incline Club. Rap to the ground.
Standard rack & 3 bolts.
|By William McGehee|
From: Choctaw, OK
Jun 25, 2005
I didn't feel as though this line was worthwhile really. Not a fun beginner line, the gear really isn't all that great and I was looking, the crack isn't so much a crack as it is a flared feature, and it's really rather 'gunky.' I suggest you climb Disinclination instead.