Midway Rock  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Lat, Long:  38.7751, -120.3095 Map Page Views:  3,241. Good page?    Administrators:  Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Colonel Mustard on Feb 6, 2011 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event

Self Abuse

Description 

As you might have guessed, Midway Rock is located about halfway up to the Sugarloaf proper. By the time the trail makes a sharp right before getting steeper, you will have already noticed the distinctive gaping maw of a crack called Self Abuse directly in front of you on the South face of Midway.

There are a handful or more face climbs on the rock to the left of Self Abuse, and to the right several lieback cracks.

Getting There 

Follow the trail from the power plant as approaching Sugarloaf. About halfway up, you cannot miss this overgrown boulder with a wide crack in the center. Allow 10-15 minutes to approach.

The Classics

Featured Route For Midway Rock

Self Abuse 5.10b  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Midway Rock

Put away the old flogging whip and pay the penance for your sinful ways on Self Abuse instead. This flaring maw of a crack starts with some sharp finger locks you will combine with lower body slab and chimney techniques to surmount. The hand jams following this bouldery crux section quickly lead to the flaring squeeze chimney you will grow to know, and, well, probably hate.If the reason for this climb's name has not become apparent to you at some point during the squeeze, your technique is more ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA