Midterm 5.10b
| 3,725 page views
Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | Chuck Pratt & Tom Frost, August 1964 |
| Submitted By: | Euan Cameron on Feb 1, 2007 |
| |
BETA PHOTO: The beautiful Midterm at Arch Rock
Add Photo  Printer View
2012 Closures MORE INFO >>>
Yearly raptor closures typically begin March 1 and remain in effect until August 1, or until further notice.
As of March 1, 2012: Lower Merced River Gorge. Closure includes all routes with the following exception: routes west of and including "Later" and northeast of and including "Juliette's Flake" remain open.
See the following website for more info:
www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingclosures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
|
|
Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
|
Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
|
|
Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
|
|
Description The first time I was on this climb was mid June in 100F heat. Perhaps not the best conditions, because I only got hotter as I got higher.
The climb starts with the technical crux, a polished finger crack. Thankfully this is short and leads to a very good ledge and rest. If you ever want to hear sticky rubber squeak, this is your climb!
What follows is a great hand jamming sequence, up to the midway point of the climb. The crack slowly widens to wide hands, then to off width and finally to a polished chimney.
When you reach the anchors, take deep breaths and marvel at this classic climb, and wonder why size 8 friends never caught on.
Location Located in the middle of the Arch Rock cliff
Protection 1 set nuts, 2 sets cams. V Large cams useful for upper section
Fingers at the start of Midterm
|
Climbing Midterm march 2010
| |
By Zach Allen
Feb 24, 2007
| You really won't use anything larger than #4 camalot, which you can use for the transition into the squeeze. The squeeze at the top is too big for #6 camalot I think, and you would be hard pressed to fall out. There is a chockstone with slings to clip in the back of the squeeze, and then maybe 20 more feet to a bolted rap on the left wall. Awesome route! |
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Oct 7, 2007
| What a line this is. I brought a #5 camalot (C4), and was glad to have it. |
By skiclimber
Oct 19, 2007
| I brought the #5 c4 camalot and was stoked to have it. The 10b fingures is easy compared to the physical nature of moving in the squeeze. The chockstone is crap and I would not want to find out if it could hold. You can push the 5 for a bit in the back and it fits perfect. This pitch is excellent and a great journey in tecnique through almost every size. |
By Joe Stern
Feb 10, 2008
| Really fun climbing through a variety of techniques. Short crux at the bottom. I'm a proponent of Zach's gear recommendation: if you're comfortable on moderate chimneys, you won't need any big gear. Also, watch out for the poison oak inside the chimney. This route gets direct sun in the middle of the day, so plan accordingly and enjoy! |
By Dennis
Feb 22, 2008
| Used a C4 #4, #5, #6. The chockstone is definitely crap and rattled a bit upon inspection. I was able to walk the #6 up until about 10 ft below the chains. Echoing Skiclimber's comments, it really is an amazing journey through the sizes. |
By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Sep 30, 2008
| Is there still a beehive inside of this thing? I came to do it in October of 1997 and was bouted by bees. Haven't returned, but someday I would like to if the bees are gone. |
By snowhazed
From: Oakland, Ca
Feb 15, 2009
| no bees as of jan 09 |
By Dusty Cams
Apr 7, 2009
| The poison ivy is alive and well, Climbed last weekend and have it all over the right side of my body--be careful! |
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Dec 8, 2009
| As of Dec 5, '09:
-No poison oak
-Chockstone's gone
-Chimney still physical as hell
-Perfect winter climb |
By armando fimbrez
From: rancho cucamonga
Apr 1, 2010
| As of March 26 2010 theres poison oak at the top of the climb, just below the anchors. This climb is excellent! Great gear! Excellent jambs and fun squeeze chimney. Lots of variety on the Midterm. |
By EldoFiend
From: WY
Apr 12, 2010
| You could certainly place a BD 5 and 6 once you get into the chimney. The squeeze isn't particularly hard, but running out the top half of the climb on slightly slick rock is a touch exciting. |
By chulho "charles" chang
From: San Francisco Bay Area, CA
Apr 21, 2010
| Climbed April 2010- must weave your way through poison oak to get to anchors. Be careful not to touch it with gears hanging from your harness.
also noticed that at the bottom parking area, entire trail is surrounded by poison oak- we didn't notice it on the way up because leaves were small and brown, but it's definitely poison oak. Be careful. |
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
May 23, 2010
| As of mid May '10, lots of bees buzzing around the fingercrack, but no nest I could find. P-oak at the anchor. Stuck old #4 camalot in back of the squeeze. |
By Luke Stefurak
From: Mountain View, CA
Jan 24, 2011
| Old #4 is still stuck. Most of the Poison oak is gone from the anchor (bushes still there but no leaves). Great weather right now for midterm. Squeak Squeak goes the rubber! |
By John Long
Jul 20, 2011
| Possibly the best rock in the world. |
|
RSS Feed
2 more...
Slideshow
