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Arch Rock
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Midterm 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chuck Pratt & Tom Frost, August 1964
Page Views: 4,504
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Feb 1, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (50)
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BETA PHOTO: The beautiful Midterm at Arch Rock
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  • Description 

    The first time I was on this climb was mid June in 100F heat. Perhaps not the best conditions, because I only got hotter as I got higher.

    The climb starts with the technical crux, a polished finger crack. Thankfully this is short and leads to a very good ledge and rest. If you ever want to hear sticky rubber squeak, this is your climb!

    What follows is a great hand jamming sequence, up to the midway point of the climb. The crack slowly widens to wide hands, then to off width and finally to a polished chimney.

    When you reach the anchors, take deep breaths and marvel at this classic climb, and wonder why size 8 friends never caught on.


    Location 

    Located in the middle of the Arch Rock cliff


    Protection 

    1 set nuts, 2 sets cams. V Large cams useful for upper section



    Photos of Midterm Slideshow Add Photo
    Fingers at the start of Midterm
    Fingers at the start of Midterm
    Climbing Midterm march 2010
    Climbing Midterm march 2010
    Comments on Midterm Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 25, 2014
    By Zach Allen
    Feb 24, 2007

    You really won't use anything larger than #4 camalot, which you can use for the transition into the squeeze. The squeeze at the top is too big for #6 camalot I think, and you would be hard pressed to fall out. There is a chockstone with slings to clip in the back of the squeeze, and then maybe 20 more feet to a bolted rap on the left wall. Awesome route!

    By Sirius
    From: Oakland, CA
    Oct 7, 2007

    What a line this is. I brought a #5 camalot (C4), and was glad to have it.

    By skiclimber
    Oct 19, 2007

    I brought the #5 c4 camalot and was stoked to have it. The 10b fingures is easy compared to the physical nature of moving in the squeeze. The chockstone is crap and I would not want to find out if it could hold. You can push the 5 for a bit in the back and it fits perfect. This pitch is excellent and a great journey in tecnique through almost every size.

    By Joe Stern
    Feb 10, 2008

    Really fun climbing through a variety of techniques. Short crux at the bottom. I'm a proponent of Zach's gear recommendation: if you're comfortable on moderate chimneys, you won't need any big gear. Also, watch out for the poison oak inside the chimney. This route gets direct sun in the middle of the day, so plan accordingly and enjoy!

    By Dennis
    Feb 22, 2008

    Used a C4 #4, #5, #6. The chockstone is definitely crap and rattled a bit upon inspection. I was able to walk the #6 up until about 10 ft below the chains. Echoing Skiclimber's comments, it really is an amazing journey through the sizes.

    By Tavis Ricksecker
    From: Bishop, ca
    Sep 30, 2008

    Is there still a beehive inside of this thing? I came to do it in October of 1997 and was bouted by bees. Haven't returned, but someday I would like to if the bees are gone.

    By snowhazed
    From: Oakland, Ca
    Feb 15, 2009

    no bees as of jan 09

    By Dusty Cams
    Apr 7, 2009

    The poison ivy is alive and well, Climbed last weekend and have it all over the right side of my body--be careful!

    By Sirius
    From: Oakland, CA
    Dec 8, 2009

    As of Dec 5, '09:

    -No poison oak
    -Chockstone's gone
    -Chimney still physical as hell
    -Perfect winter climb

    By armando fimbrez
    From: rancho cucamonga
    Apr 1, 2010

    As of March 26 2010 theres poison oak at the top of the climb, just below the anchors. This climb is excellent! Great gear! Excellent jambs and fun squeeze chimney. Lots of variety on the Midterm.

    By EldoFiend
    From: WY
    Apr 12, 2010

    You could certainly place a BD 5 and 6 once you get into the chimney. The squeeze isn't particularly hard, but running out the top half of the climb on slightly slick rock is a touch exciting.

    By chulho "charles" chang
    From: San Francisco Bay Area, CA
    Apr 21, 2010

    Climbed April 2010- must weave your way through poison oak to get to anchors. Be careful not to touch it with gears hanging from your harness.

    also noticed that at the bottom parking area, entire trail is surrounded by poison oak- we didn't notice it on the way up because leaves were small and brown, but it's definitely poison oak. Be careful.

    By Will S
    From: Joshua Tree
    May 23, 2010

    As of mid May '10, lots of bees buzzing around the fingercrack, but no nest I could find. P-oak at the anchor. Stuck old #4 camalot in back of the squeeze.

    By Luke Stefurak
    From: Mountain View, CA
    Jan 24, 2011

    Old #4 is still stuck. Most of the Poison oak is gone from the anchor (bushes still there but no leaves). Great weather right now for midterm. Squeak Squeak goes the rubber!

    By John Long
    Jul 20, 2011

    Possibly the best rock in the world.

    By Jeff Scheuerell
    Jan 20, 2012

    One of my favorite pitches.

    By busik
    Jan 21, 2014

    c4 #5 was useful for first few meters of the squeeze.
    probably number 4 would work, but i left it on transition from fist to ow.
    finger-crack start is super polished.

    and yes, old #4 is still there

    By Patrick O'Neil
    From: Santa Clara, CA
    Feb 25, 2014

    I found this to be, shall I say, not casual for .10b