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the shallow corner
begins to the right of sudden shock and about 10ft left of natural selection. start is located just in front of a large (think dresser size) boulder that is about 5 ft from the wall.
once past the slightly vertical section and at the first/main roof, climb up a shallow, narrow corner. the sides of the corner are only a few feet wide, and the corner itself only about 10ft tall. the holds in the corner are crimps and two-finger pockets, with the occasional jug. after the corner, go left to a big hueco. from there, just follow the chalk and big holds and aim for the top. ends on two long chains set 3-4 feet apart. these chains are visible from the bridge.
if clipping all the bolts, takes around 13 draws. take a few longer draws or a few runners to eliminate drag at the start and underneath some of the other smaller roofs. lastly, thick pants and/or kneepads help for this route. :)
WHEN TOPROPING PLEASE USE USE YOUR QUICKDRAWS INSTEAD OF THE FIXED DRAWS. because the link-up sudden daydream (12a) shares the same ending as midsummer, these anchors take a lot of abuse. help us preserve the fixed anchors for as long as possible!
Bolts. Please do not toprope off of the fixed gear at the top, use your own draws for that. If the biners on the chains look worn or do not work properly, please replace them. It's good karma.
Clay Adams working through the opening moves of &q...
matt catching a cheeky rest just past the physical...
Just after pulling the first roof.
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
May 1, 2016
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
as kurt mentioned on the page for sudden daydreams (12a), some holds recently broke about 1/2 up the route, making the sequence a bit harder (and better?). the choss factory giveth, the choss factory taketh away.