Midnight Surf Rock Climbing
Enjoying the excellent Iniquity at Midnight Surf.
Long overhanging wall with routes graded well into the 5.12 to 5.13 range.
Some parts are chossy or loose (looking at the bottom of the cliff you will understand), but the classics are very solid.
Most draws are fixed with metal cables.
Some very high quality climbing in my opinion. Better be ready for dynamic climbing, the holds are sometimes far apart.
Newer area of Muir Valley. Follow the directions for Weber Hollow until you see some signs leading to MN SURF (Midnight Surf).
As far as I know there are 2 ways to get there. The first path shares destination with the Boneyard and is quite long and tiring. second path is just passed the Solarium and climbs a flight of stairs to the bottom of the crag. Much easier.
Weather station 8.2 miles from here
10 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Midnight Surf
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Midnight Surf
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Midnight Surf:
Tree Hugger 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Iniquity 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Babyface 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Tapeworm 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Midnight Surf
Tapeworm 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b KY
: Red River Gorge
: ... : Midnight Surf
Tapeworm is the other "must-do" route at Midnight Surf, along with Cell Block Six, & Iniquity. However, Tapeworm (mostly*) lacks the no-hands rests that ruin the continuity of its neighbors. The climbing is more of the same: huge moves between horizontal breaks, culminating in a big pump and a heart-breaking boulder problem just below the chains. Begin up the fragile, left-facing flake. Easier moves lead between horizontal bands. Around the 3rd bolt, a difficult crimp move gains a good jug, ...[more] Browse More Classics in KY
The Midnight Surf cliffband.