Midnight Surf Rock Climbing
Enjoying the excellent Iniquity at Midnight Surf.
Long overhanging wall with routes graded well into the 5.12 to 5.13 range.
Some parts are chossy or loose (looking at the bottom of the cliff you will understand), but the classics are very solid.
Most draws are fixed with metal cables.
Some very high quality climbing in my opinion. Better be ready for dynamic climbing, the holds are sometimes far apart.
Newer area of Muir Valley. Follow the directions for Weber Hollow until you see some signs leading to MN SURF (Midnight Surf).
As far as I know there are 2 ways to get there. The first path shares destination with the Boneyard and is quite long and tiring. second path is just passed the Solarium and climbs a flight of stairs to the bottom of the crag. Much easier.
Climbing Season For the Muir Valley area.
Weather station 8.2 miles from here
10 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Midnight Surf
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Midnight Surf
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Midnight Surf:
Tree Hugger 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Iniquity 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Babyface 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Tapeworm 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Midnight Surf
Iniquity 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b KY
: Red River Gorge
: ... : Midnight Surf
Bring your bouldering skills.The route starts with a V4-V5 boulder problem on tiny crimps. Bring edgy shoes.Once passed the buiness, embark on a magical journey of long reached on big holds on a slightly overhanging face. Move right to a huge no hands rest and make a scary clip.Make your way up to smaller holds before engaging the dynamic finish on big holds.ouf.P.S. If you can't make the start, I still suggest you try the rest of the route. Very very exciting....[more] Browse More Classics in KY
The Midnight Surf cliffband.