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Midnight Surf

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Farewell to Arms S 
Babyface S 
Cell Block Six S 
Crucible, The S 
Iniquity S 
Mellow Yellow S 
Shiva S 
Tapeworm S 
Tree Hugger S 
Vortex S 

Midnight Surf Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.732, -83.64195 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,728
Administrators: DisturbingThePeace, Jason Halladay, saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Steve Marcil on Oct 31, 2009
Forecast:
Memorial Day

83° | 63°
Tuesday

85° | 61°
Wednesday

86° | 65°
Thursday

81° | 65°
Friday

75° | 59°
Saturday

77° | 59°
You & This Area
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Enjoying the excellent Iniquity at Midnight Surf.

Muir Valley access MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Long overhanging wall with routes graded well into the 5.12 to 5.13 range.

Some parts are chossy or loose (looking at the bottom of the cliff you will understand), but the classics are very solid.

Most draws are fixed with metal cables.

Some very high quality climbing in my opinion. Better be ready for dynamic climbing, the holds are sometimes far apart.

Getting There 

Newer area of Muir Valley. Follow the directions for Weber Hollow until you see some signs leading to MN SURF (Midnight Surf).

As far as I know there are 2 ways to get there. The first path shares destination with the Boneyard and is quite long and tiring. second path is just passed the Solarium and climbs a flight of stairs to the bottom of the crag. Much easier.

Climbing Season

For the Muir Valley area.

Weather station 8.2 miles from here

10 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',2],['5.12',6],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Midnight Surf

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Midnight Surf:
Tree Hugger   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Iniquity   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Babyface   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Cell Block Six   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
The Crucible   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 80'   
Tapeworm   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Midnight Surf

Featured Route For Midnight Surf
Rock Climbing Photo: The no-hands rest halfway up Iniquity.

Iniquity 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Midnight Surf
Bring your bouldering skills.The route starts with a V4-V5 boulder problem on tiny crimps. Bring edgy shoes.Once passed the buiness, embark on a magical journey of long reached on big holds on a slightly overhanging face. Move right to a huge no hands rest and make a scary clip.Make your way up to smaller holds before engaging the dynamic finish on big holds.ouf.P.S. If you can't make the start, I still suggest you try the rest of the route. Very very exciting....[more]   Browse More Classics in KY

Photos of Midnight Surf Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Midnight Surf cliffband.
The Midnight Surf cliffband.

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