Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 1,043 ft
GPS: 37.73199, -83.64195
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 46,224 total · 264/month
Shared By: Steve Marcil on Oct 31, 2009
Admins: Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek
Warning Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Long overhanging wall with routes graded well into the 5.12 to 5.13 range.

Some parts are chossy or loose (looking at the bottom of the cliff you will understand), but the classics are very solid.

Most draws are fixed with metal cables.

Some very high quality climbing in my opinion. Better be ready for dynamic climbing, the holds are sometimes far apart.

Getting There Suggest change

Take the North Trail behind the barn in the main parking lot.  Turn left when you reach the valley and walk along the gravel valley floor road. Stay right at a fork in the road and cross a bridge across a small creek. Continue along the gravel road for awhile, passing the approach trails for Animal Crackers, Hideout, Great Wall, and Solarium, before finally reaching the Midnight Surf trail on your right. At the top of the trail make a right for Midnight Surf or left for Boneyard. 

You can also approach as for Animal Crackers, make a right, pass the Boneyard and continue along the cliff to Midnight Surf.

11 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Midnight Surf Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Midnight Surf

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 19
Mellow Yellow
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 59
Tree Hugger
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 81
Iniquity
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 51
Babyface
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 211
Cell Block Six
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 37
The Crucible
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 20
Vortex
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 58
Tapeworm
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 25
A Farewell to Arms
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 11
Starfish and Coffee
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 23
Shiva
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mellow Yellow
 19
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Tree Hugger
 59
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Iniquity
 81
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Babyface
 51
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Cell Block Six
 211
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Crucible
 37
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Vortex
 20
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Tapeworm
 58
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
A Farewell to Arms
 25
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Starfish and Coffee
 11
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Shiva
 23
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Midnight Surf »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

0 Comments