Login with Facebook
Midnight Spire

Select Route:
Milky Way S 

Midnight Spire  

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 40'
Page Views: 485
Administrators: andy patterson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: John Knight on Jun 14, 2009
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!


Midnight Spire is a detached spire located near Jam Crack Wall and the left side of P-Wall. The two most popular routes face north and are typically in the shade (great destination on a hot day). Great views and great exposure from the top of the spire. Check it out when you're looking for something different.

Getting There 

To access Midnight Spire, take the trail to P-Wall. Turn left at P-Wall, pass Garden Wall and continue up to the “notch” between the Spire and Jam Crack Wall. When you get to the notch, drop down and left to access the base of “Full Moon” and “Milky Way”. Access "Aurora Borealis" by dropping down and working your way right (counterclockwise) around the spire.

Climbing Season

Weather station 1.6 miles from here

1 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Midnight Spire

Milky Way 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CA : Central Coast : ... : Midnight Spire
This route is good to do once if you want something new to do that includes a nice amount of exposure. After clipping your belayer into a low bolt to the right of the route, step out left and onto the wall. The exposure starts as soon as you step onto the route. Follow the rusty bolt line straight up to a two bolt anchor with chains. Because of the rusted state of all of the bolts and chains on this route, some may prefer continuing past the chains to a higher set of chains at the top of the spi...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Midnight Spire Slideshow Add Photo
 <br />A. Aurora Borealis 5.10d or A1 13 bolts (in about 30’!). To access the base of this climb, drop down from the notch and work your way counterclockwise around the Spire. Look for a belay bolt down low to protect your belayer from falling over the steep drop. Good aid practice. Note - it looks harder than 5.10d, but give it a try and let me know. FA (on aid) – Jeff Herbst & Kenny Craig, 1995. FA (free) – Ken Klis 1996. <br /> <br />B. Milky Way 5.9 * 4 bolts.  An interesting climb that you should do at least once. Crux is between bolts 1 and 2. You can tie in your belayer via a bolt on the block at the base of the route. FA – Jeff Herbst & Kenny Craig, 1995. <br /> <br />C. Full Moon (Original Start) 5.9 * 2 bolts + small to medium gear. Start at the “bush” and go straight up past 2 bolts. Bring a couple cams and long slings to protect the upper portion. An interesting route that wanders through several cracks and ledges. The crux is getting past the first bolt. A fun route worth doing at least once. Nice way to reach the top of the spire. Lead bolts and anchor replaced in 2009. FA – Jeff Herbst & Kenny Craig, 1995.  <br /> <br />C.1. Ramp Start (Variation) 5.6/5.7 * 2 bolts + small to medium gear. Start on the ramp to the right of the original start for “Full Moon” then join the route at bolt 2. Bring a couple cams and long slings to protect the upper section. You can make it harder by climbing direct or easier by wandering up the various ramps and ledges.  <br /> <br />D. Spire Access 5.4 Small to medium gear. Simply a way to get to the top if you want to set up a top rope. Protect with gear or scramble to the top making one exposed 5.4 move.  <br /> <br />E. Unknown Trad Route 5.6 Small to medium gear. This route is located on the south side of the spire (overlooking Foothill Blvd.). Continue up the left trending, crack/ramp to the anchors. There may be another TR on this side of the Spire that drops straight down from the anchors.  <br />
BETA PHOTO: A. Aurora Borealis 5.10d or A1 13 bolts (in about...
Midnight Spire Access Route - Head to P-Wall, then take a left. Work your way along Jam Crack Wall, then drop down when you get to the notch. The north side of the spire has the two most popular routes.
BETA PHOTO: Midnight Spire Access Route - Head to P-Wall, then...

Comments on Midnight Spire Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -