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 ADVANCED
Midnight Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
After Midnight S 
Caboose, The S 
Cage, The T 
Caged Bird of Pray T 
Cirque du Soleil S 
Crack a Smile S 
Deus Ex Machina S 
Dyno Mart S 
Engine, The T,S 
Flake Out S 
Geminae Cracks S 
Grande Finale S 
Hack a Drone S 
Hammer Down S 
Jet Stream T 
Karma Chameleon S 
Meltdown S 
Midnight Cowboy S 
Midnight Express S 
Pirate Radar S 
Rycessica T 
Stroke of Midnight, The S 
Union with Earth S 
Voila S 
Weather Report S 

Midnight Rock  


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: Midnight Rock, left side. A. The Cage 9+ R, gear....

Description 

A number good routes here and there with most of the quality routes in the 11-12 range. A 60m rope may be required to lower off some routes.

A total of 25 routes, most sport routes in the 5.10 to 5.12 range, are documented in Mark Rolofson's new guidebook Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide, Vol. I: Lower Narrows to Dream Canyon.

A number of new routes have been developed here in the past few years by Vaino Kodas and partners; see Vaino's Midnight Rock routes for details.

L->R lower rock, starting from the ground (incomplete):

A. The Cage, 9+ R, 1p, 70', gear.
B. Birds Of Prey, 10 R, gear.
C. Cirque Du Soleil, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Hammer Down, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Union With Earth, 10+, gear & bolts.
F. Around Midnight, 13?, bolts & pin.
G. Flake Out, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
H. Meltdown, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.
I. Pirate Radar, 11+, bolts & pins & gear.
J. Jet Stream, 12-, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.
K. Midnight Cowboy, 12-, 1p, 90', bolts.
L. Midnight Express, 10+, 1p, 90', gear.
M. After Midnight, 11c, 1p, bolts.
N. The Stroke Of Midnight, 10+, 1p, 90', bolts.
O. Weather Report, 9-, 1p, 80', bolts.
P. Hack a Drone, 10+, 1p, 75', bolts.
Q. Crack A Smile, 11, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
R. Grand Finale, 12+ PG-13, 1p, bolts.
S. Voila, 12-, 1p, bolts.


Upper Ledge L->R:

AA. Engine, 10+, 50', gear & bolts.
BB. The Caboose, 11, 50', bolts.
CC. Karma Kamelian, 11+ PG-13, 90', bolts.
DD. Headwall, 12?, bolts.
EE. Geminae Cracks, 13-, 40', bolts & gear.
FF. Rycessica, 10+, 1p, 25', gear.
GG. Deux Ex Machina, 11, 60', bolts.
HH. Dyno Mart, 12-, 60', bolts.

. Pirate Radio

Getting There 

Hike as you would to Lost Angel from the parking lot. Take the big gully to the East of Lost Angel down to the rock.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.1 miles from here

25 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',8],['5.11',8],['5.12',7],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Midnight Rock:
Weather Report   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Meltdown   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Midnight Express   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Hack a Drone   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Hammer Down   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Pirate Radar   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Voila   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Midnight Cowboy   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Flake Out   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Cirque du Soleil   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Geminae Cracks   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Classics in Midnight Rock

Featured Route For Midnight Rock
Matt Bebe on Voila, photo: Bob Horan.

Voila 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  CO : Boulder : ... : Midnight Rock
This is located up and around the corner to the right from Weather Report. Climb the steep colorful wall just right of Grande Finale. It has 11 bolts to a two bolt anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Midnight Rock
Photos of Midnight Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Upper and Lower Dream Canyon  Modified from origin...
BETA PHOTO: Upper and Lower Dream Canyon Modified from origin...
Midnight Rock, upper right side.  Deus Ex Machina ...
BETA PHOTO: Midnight Rock, upper right side. Deus Ex Machina ...
Midnight Rock, photo: Bob Horan.
Midnight Rock, photo: Bob Horan.
Midnight Rock - lower right side.
BETA PHOTO: Midnight Rock - lower right side.

Comments on Midnight Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Cavallaro
Aug 1, 2006
Are these routes and the routes on Vanishing Point in the shade during the summer, and if so, what times? Morning? Afternoon?
Thanks!
By Garrett Bales
From: Lake City, CO
Apr 7, 2013
Pretty sad little crag, many of the routes probably shouldn't exist....
The crag faces southwest and west, and it gets pretty good sun.