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Midnight Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
After Midnight 
Caboose, The 
Cage, The 
Caged Bird of Pray 
Cirque du Soleil 
Crack a Smile 
Deus Ex Machina 
Dyno Mart 
Engine, The 
Flake Out 
Geminae Cracks 
Grande Finale 
Hack a Drone 
Hammer Down 
Jet Stream 
Karma Chameleon 
Midnight Cowboy 
Midnight Express 
Pirate Radar 
Stroke of Midnight, The 
Union with Earth 
Weather Report 

Midnight Rock 

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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: Midnight Rock, left side.

A. The Cage 9+ R, gear....


A number good routes here and there with most of the quality routes in the 11-12 range. A 60m rope may be required to lower off some routes.

A total of 25 routes, most sport routes in the 5.10 to 5.12 range, are documented in Mark Rolofson's new guidebook Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide, Vol. I: Lower Narrows to Dream Canyon.

A number of new routes have been developed here in the past few years by Vaino Kodas and partners; see Vaino's Midnight Rock routes for details.

L->R lower rock, starting from the ground (incomplete):

A. The Cage, 9+ R, 1p, 70', gear.
B. Birds Of Prey, 10 R, gear.
C. Cirque Du Soleil, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Hammer Down, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Union With Earth, 10+, gear & bolts.
F. Around Midnight, 13?, bolts & pin.
G. Flake Out, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
H. Meltdown, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.
I. Pirate Radar, 11+, bolts & pins & gear.
J. Jet Stream, 12-, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.
K. Midnight Cowboy, 12-, 1p, 90', bolts.
L. Midnight Express, 10+, 1p, 90', gear.
M. After Midnight, 11c, 1p, bolts.
N. The Stroke Of Midnight, 10+, 1p, 90', bolts.
O. Weather Report, 9-, 1p, 80', bolts.
P. Hack a Drone, 10+, 1p, 75', bolts.
Q. Crack A Smile, 11, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
R. Grand Finale, 12+ PG-13, 1p, bolts.
S. Voila, 12-, 1p, bolts.

Upper Ledge L->R:

AA. Engine, 10+, 50', gear & bolts.
BB. The Caboose, 11, 50', bolts.
CC. Karma Kamelian, 11+ PG-13, 90', bolts.
DD. Headwall, 12?, bolts.
EE. Geminae Cracks, 13-, 40', bolts & gear.
FF. Rycessica, 10+, 1p, 25', gear.
GG. Deux Ex Machina, 11, 60', bolts.
HH. Dyno Mart, 12-, 60', bolts.

. Pirate Radio

Getting There 

Hike as you would to Lost Angel from the parking lot. Take the big gully to the East of Lost Angel down to the rock.

25 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Midnight Rock:
Weather Report   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Meltdown   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Hack a Drone   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Midnight Express   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Hammer Down   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Pirate Radar   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Voila   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Midnight Cowboy   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Flake Out   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Cirque du Soleil   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Geminae Cracks   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Classics in Midnight Rock

Featured Route For Midnight Rock
Matt Bebe on Voila, photo: Bob Horan.

Voila 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a  CO : Boulder : ... : Midnight Rock
This is located up and around the corner to the right from Weather Report. Climb the steep colorful wall just right of Grande Finale. It has 11 bolts to a two bolt anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Midnight Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Upper and Lower Dream Canyon <br /> <br />Modified from original by Vaino Kodas.
BETA PHOTO: Upper and Lower Dream Canyon

Modified from origin...
Midnight Rock, upper right side. <br /> <br />Deus Ex Machina 11c, 5 bolts. <br />Dyno Mart 12a, 5 bolts. <br /> <br />Photo by Vaino Kodas. <br /> <br />
BETA PHOTO: Midnight Rock, upper right side.

Deus Ex Machina ...
Midnight Rock, photo: Bob Horan.
Midnight Rock, photo: Bob Horan.
Midnight Rock - lower right side.
BETA PHOTO: Midnight Rock - lower right side.
Comments on Midnight Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Cavallaro
Aug 1, 2006

Are these routes and the routes on Vanishing Point in the shade during the summer, and if so, what times? Morning? Afternoon?

By Garrett Bales
From: Lake City, CO
Apr 7, 2013

Pretty sad little crag, many of the routes probably shouldn't exist....
The crag faces southwest and west, and it gets pretty good sun.