A number good routes here and there with most of the quality routes in the 11-12 range. A 60m rope may be required to lower off some routes.
A total of 25 routes, most sport routes in the 5.10 to 5.12 range, are documented in Mark Rolofson's new guidebook Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide, Vol. I: Lower Narrows to Dream Canyon.
A number of new routes have been developed here in the past few years by Vaino Kodas and partners; see Vaino's Midnight Rock routes for details.
L->R lower rock, starting from the ground (incomplete):
A. The Cage, 9+ R, 1p, 70', gear.
B. Birds Of Prey, 10 R, gear.
C. Cirque Du Soleil, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Hammer Down, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Union With Earth, 10+, gear & bolts.
F. Around Midnight, 13?, bolts & pin.
G. Flake Out, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
H. Meltdown, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.
I. Pirate Radar, 11+, bolts & pins & gear.
J. Jet Stream, 12-, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.
K. Midnight Cowboy, 12-, 1p, 90', bolts.
L. Midnight Express, 10+, 1p, 90', gear.
M. After Midnight, 11c, 1p, bolts.
N. The Stroke Of Midnight, 10+, 1p, 90', bolts.
O. Weather Report, 9-, 1p, 80', bolts.
P. Hack a Drone, 10+, 1p, 75', bolts.
Q. Crack A Smile, 11, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
R. Grand Finale, 12+ PG-13, 1p, bolts.
S. Voila, 12-, 1p, bolts.
Upper Ledge L->R:
AA. Engine, 10+, 50', gear & bolts.
BB. The Caboose, 11, 50', bolts.
CC. Karma Kamelian, 11+ PG-13, 90', bolts.
DD. Headwall, 12?, bolts.
EE. Geminae Cracks, 13-, 40', bolts & gear.
FF. Rycessica, 10+, 1p, 25', gear.
GG. Deux Ex Machina, 11, 60', bolts.
HH. Dyno Mart, 12-, 60', bolts.
. Pirate Radio
Hike as you would to Lost Angel from the parking lot. Take the big gully to the East of Lost Angel down to the rock.
25 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Midnight Rock
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Midnight Rock:
Meltdown 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Hammer Down 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Voila 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Flake Out 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Midnight Rock
Local Information for Midnight Rock
Latest Regional Forum Messages
|By Chris Cavallaro|
Aug 1, 2006
Are these routes and the routes on Vanishing Point in the shade during the summer, and if so, what times? Morning? Afternoon?
|By Garrett Bales|
From: Lake City, CO
Apr 7, 2013
Pretty sad little crag, many of the routes probably shouldn't exist....
The crag faces southwest and west, and it gets pretty good sun.