BETA PHOTO: Midnight Rock, left side.
A. The Cage 9+ R, gear....
A number good routes here and there with most of the quality routes in the 11-12 range. A 60m rope may be required to lower off some routes.
A total of 25 routes, most sport routes in the 5.10 to 5.12 range, are documented in Mark Rolofson's new guidebook Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide, Vol. I: Lower Narrows to Dream Canyon.
A number of new routes have been developed here in the past few years by Vaino Kodas and partners; see Vaino's Midnight Rock routes for details.
L->R lower rock, starting from the ground (incomplete):
A. The Cage, 9+ R, 1p, 70', gear.
B. Birds Of Prey, 10 R, gear.
C. Cirque Du Soleil, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Hammer Down, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Union With Earth, 10+, gear & bolts.
F. Around Midnight, 13?, bolts & pin.
G. Flake Out, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
H. Meltdown, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.
I. Pirate Radar, 11+, bolts & pins & gear.
J. Jet Stream, 12-, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.
K. Midnight Cowboy, 12-, 1p, 90', bolts.
L. Midnight Express, 10+, 1p, 90', gear.
M. After Midnight, 11c, 1p, bolts.
N. The Stroke Of Midnight, 10+, 1p, 90', bolts.
O. Weather Report, 9-, 1p, 80', bolts.
P. Hack a Drone, 10+, 1p, 75', bolts.
Q. Crack A Smile, 11, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
R. Grand Finale, 12+ PG-13, 1p, bolts.
S. Voila, 12-, 1p, bolts.
Upper Ledge L->R:
AA. Engine, 10+, 50', gear & bolts.
BB. The Caboose, 11, 50', bolts.
CC. Karma Kamelian, 11+ PG-13, 90', bolts.
DD. Headwall, 12?, bolts.
EE. Geminae Cracks, 13-, 40', bolts & gear.
FF. Rycessica, 10+, 1p, 25', gear.
GG. Deux Ex Machina, 11, 60', bolts.
HH. Dyno Mart, 12-, 60', bolts.
. Pirate Radio
Hike as you would to Lost Angel from the parking lot. Take the big gully to the East of Lost Angel down to the rock.
Browse More Classics in Midnight Rock
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Midnight Rock:
5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet
Featured Route For Midnight Rock
BETA PHOTO: Midnight Rock, upper right side.
Deus Ex Machina ...
BETA PHOTO: Upper and Lower Dream Canyon
Modified from origin...
Midnight Rock, photo: Bob Horan.
|Comments on Midnight Rock
|By Chris Cavallaro|
Aug 1, 2006
Are these routes and the routes on Vanishing Point in the shade during the summer, and if so, what times? Morning? Afternoon?
|By Garrett Bales|
From: Lake City, CO
Apr 7, 2013
Pretty sad little crag, many of the routes probably shouldn't exist....
The crag faces southwest and west, and it gets pretty good sun.