Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
Midnight Rock
Patagonia Women's Micro Puff Jacket

$149.00 50% off

$74.50

at Patagonia

36    more...
Scarpa Mago Climbing Shoe - Vibram XS Grip2

$158.95 25% off

$119.21

at Backcountry

5    more...
SCARPA Instinct S Climbing Shoes

$135.00 20% off

$108.00

at EMS

6    more...
Black Diamond Stinger Crampon

$209.95 25% off

$157.46

at Backcountry

1    more...
Patagonia Women's Crossover Bra

$49.00 50% off

$24.50

at Patagonia

129    more...
POW Gloves Stealth GTX Gloves

$69.99 28% off

$49.99

at AltrecOutlet

   more...
Giro Savant Bike Helmet

$89.99 25% off

$67.49

at AlsSports

   more...
 more Dirtbag Deals

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
After Midnight 
Caboose, The 
Cage, The 
Caged Bird of Pray 
Cirque du Soleil 
Crack a Smile 
Deus Ex Machina 
Dyno Mart 
Engine, The 
Flake Out 
Geminae Cracks 
Grande Finale 
Hack a Drone 
Hammer Down 
Jet Stream 
Karma Chameleon 
Meltdown 
Midnight Cowboy 
Midnight Express 
Pirate Radar 
Rycessica 
Stroke of Midnight, The 
Union with Earth 
Voila 
Weather Report 

Midnight Rock 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 9,020. Good page? (1 like)   
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001

Make this area a Favorite
What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 

Thu Fri Sat Sun Mon
Chance of a Thunderstorm
61° | 43°
Partly Cloudy
72° | 43°
Partly Cloudy
72° | 43°
Mostly Cloudy
72° | 43°
Mostly Cloudy
70° | 43°

BETA PHOTO: Midnight Rock, left side.

A. The Cage 9+ R, gear....


Description 

A number good routes here and there with most of the quality routes in the 11-12 range. A 60m rope may be required to lower off some routes.

A total of 25 routes, most sport routes in the 5.10 to 5.12 range, are documented in Mark Rolofson's new guidebook Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide, Vol. I: Lower Narrows to Dream Canyon.

A number of new routes have been developed here in the past few years by Vaino Kodas and partners; see Vaino's Midnight Rock routes for details.

L->R lower rock, starting from the ground (incomplete):

A. The Cage, 9+ R, 1p, 70', gear.
B. Birds Of Prey, 10 R, gear.
C. Cirque Du Soleil, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Hammer Down, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Union With Earth, 10+, gear & bolts.
F. Around Midnight, 13?, bolts & pin.
G. Flake Out, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
H. Meltdown, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.
I. Pirate Radar, 11+, bolts & pins & gear.
J. Jet Stream, 12-, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.
K. Midnight Cowboy, 12-, 1p, 90', bolts.
L. Midnight Express, 10+, 1p, 90', gear.
M. After Midnight, 11c, 1p, bolts.
N. The Stroke Of Midnight, 10+, 1p, 90', bolts.
O. Weather Report, 9-, 1p, 80', bolts.
P. Hack a Drone, 10+, 1p, 75', bolts.
Q. Crack A Smile, 11, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
R. Grand Finale, 12+ PG-13, 1p, bolts.
S. Voila, 12-, 1p, bolts.


Upper Ledge L->R:

AA. Engine, 10+, 50', gear & bolts.
BB. The Caboose, 11, 50', bolts.
CC. Karma Kamelian, 11+ PG-13, 90', bolts.
DD. Headwall, 12?, bolts.
EE. Geminae Cracks, 13-, 40', bolts & gear.
FF. Rycessica, 10+, 1p, 25', gear.
GG. Deux Ex Machina, 11, 60', bolts.
HH. Dyno Mart, 12-, 60', bolts.

. Pirate Radio


Getting There 

Hike as you would to Lost Angel from the parking lot. Take the big gully to the East of Lost Angel down to the rock.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Midnight Rock:
Weather Report   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch   
Meltdown   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Midnight Express   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
The Engine   5.10d     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Hammer Down   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Crack a Smile   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Pirate Radar   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch   
Voila   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   
Midnight Cowboy   5.12a/b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
Flake Out   5.12     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Cirque du Soleil   5.12c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Grande Finale   5.12d PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Geminae Cracks   5.13a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   
Browse More Classics in Midnight Rock

Featured Route For Midnight Rock
Matt Bebe on Voila, photo: Bob Horan.

Voila 5.12a  CO : Boulder : ... : Midnight Rock
This is located up and around the corner to the right from Weather Report. Climb the steep colorful wall just right of Grande Finale. It has 11 bolts to a two bolt anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of Midnight Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Midnight Rock, upper right side. <br /> <br />Deus Ex Machina 11c, 5 bolts. <br />Dyno Mart 12a, 5 bolts. <br /> <br />Photo by Vaino Kodas. <br /> <br />

BETA PHOTO: Midnight Rock, upper right side.

Deus Ex Machina ...


Upper and Lower Dream Canyon <br /> <br />Modified from original by Vaino Kodas.

BETA PHOTO: Upper and Lower Dream Canyon

Modified from origin...


Midnight Rock, photo: Bob Horan.

Midnight Rock, photo: Bob Horan.


Comments on Midnight Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Cavallaro
Aug 1, 2006

Are these routes and the routes on Vanishing Point in the shade during the summer, and if so, what times? Morning? Afternoon?
Thanks!

By Garrett Bales
From: Lake City, CO
Apr 7, 2013

Pretty sad little crag, many of the routes probably shouldn't exist....
The crag faces southwest and west, and it gets pretty good sun.