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The Witch
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Midnight Rider T 

Midnight Rider 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Ron Olevsky, solo
Page Views: 1,261
Submitted By: Brad Brandewie on Dec 9, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Matt Pickren on pitch three of The Witch.


This is a good route on a fun tower in an really beautiful setting. All four pitches are engaging. The crux is hard and spooky but can be aided.

Pitch One – Climb the obvious crack up a shallow right facing corner to a few moves on dubious rock through a horizontal band and a two piton anchor. 5.10

Pitch Two – Ascend the beautiful corner above the belay. 5.11 R

Pitch Three – Climb past a couple angles to a corner and then make some awkward moves left under a large flake. The RC Utah book says to avoid this way as there is a death flake but I didn’t find it that scary so perhaps there was another flake that has fallen. To avoid the flake the book says to face climb left at 5.9+ to a corner that is followed to the anchor. 5.10

Pitch Four – Face climb past several angles to the summit. 5.9

Rappel from the summit to the top of the third pitch and then to the top of the first pitch.


A double set of cams to #3 Camalot with many extras from Black Alien to .4 Camalot. A set of nuts. Screamers.

Photos of Midnight Rider Slideshow Add Photo
Don't ask.
Don't ask.
Matt feeling good about his protection opportunities on the crux.
Matt feeling good about his protection opportuniti...
Looking down from the summit.
Looking down from the summit.
Looking up at Matt on the beautiful second pitch.
Looking up at Matt on the beautiful second pitch.
A recent study (April 30, 2008) has shown that long falls in the crux dihedral can cause severe ankle trauma. <br />Taping a splint for the hike out. Cauldrons and Warlock in the back ground. <br />The dihedral takes seemingly good green aliens and blue metolius... however, 4 of them popped. WHy the 5th held is a mystery.
A recent study (April 30, 2008) has shown that lon...

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By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Dec 10, 2008

Very good info Brad.
EDIT = I think its safe to call this a serious tower route. THe crux pitch seems easy to protect, but I have proven that what seems like a good cam may not be. The inside of the crack is slightly different in size from the outside, so you have to really pay attention to the placements. It would seem that blue metolius, green aliens, and .5 wildcountry are the same size, but the wildcountry stuff seems to be best.
Pitch 3 is no giveaway... you blow, it might leave a mark.
Some of the banged-in-angles on pitch 4 are, well, not as good as some like to pretend.
The anchors are good.

Its an excellent tower climb, but its serious.
By jakobi
From: moab, utah
Nov 8, 2010

I don't know about the screamers, all the gear seemed solid, though I never got a chance to test it. We definitely ran into the huge detached flake at the top of the third pitch, it seemed more solid than other choppers I've ran into, but it would be devastating if it did come off.
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Feb 22, 2014
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Green Aliens are the money piece on the 2nd pitch I would recommend 3 or even 4 if you really want to sew it up.