|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 300'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA:||Ron Olevsky, solo|
|Submitted By:||Brad Brandewie on Dec 9, 2008|
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Midnight Rider||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Dec 10, 2008
Very good info Brad.
EDIT = I think its safe to call this a serious tower route. THe crux pitch seems easy to protect, but I have proven that what seems like a good cam may not be. The inside of the crack is slightly different in size from the outside, so you have to really pay attention to the placements. It would seem that blue metolius, green aliens, and .5 wildcountry are the same size, but the wildcountry stuff seems to be best.
Pitch 3 is no giveaway... you blow, it might leave a mark.
Some of the banged-in-angles on pitch 4 are, well, not as good as some like to pretend.
The anchors are good.
Its an excellent tower climb, but its serious.
From: moab, utah
Nov 8, 2010
|I don't know about the screamers, all the gear seemed solid, though I never got a chance to test it. We definitely ran into the huge detached flake at the top of the third pitch, it seemed more solid than other choppers I've ran into, but it would be devastating if it did come off.|
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Feb 22, 2014
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
|Green Aliens are the money piece on the 2nd pitch I would recommend 3 or even 4 if you really want to sew it up.|