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Midnight Frightening 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Herb Crimp, July 2008
New Route: Yes
Season: Morning Sun, Afternoon Shade
Page Views: 1,723
Submitted By: Billy Smallen on Jul 28, 2008
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Start below a giant flake to the right of Schoolroom #1. The crux is right off the ground so you may want a crash pad. Start in thin crimps that don't let up until you hit the flake--awesome moves! Once you reach the flake traverse right and place a #2 camalot or a #3 friend in the pod--then continue right. After placing another #2 Camalot (just as the flake jogs upward) do a huge undercling pullup and move right, clip a bolt (a kneebar may help for clipping) then traverse right to another undercling where you can get handjams (and a #1 Camalot). You may then want to place a 0.5 Camalot where the crack constricts. Traverse farther right where you can get a 0.3 camalot in a pod at your knee, then climb up, clipping a bolt, to the anchors!


This route is the first route right of Schoolroom #1,and 2 climbs left of Smoke Filled Rooms on a giant flake that trends upriver from 15-40 feet off the ground.


3 Bolts, 2 #2 Camalots, 1 #0.3 Camalot, 1 #0.5 Camalot, 1 #1 Camalot

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By jakobi
From: moab, utah
Sep 7, 2012

I'm afraid this climb has been chopped, perhaps a victim of the ridiculous Wall St. climber feud that's been going on the last couple of years.

By rapchopper
Oct 3, 2012

Ignorant comments from ignorant people, go figure...

By ben jammin
From: Moab, UT
Oct 4, 2012

Bad boys... what ya gonna do, what ya gonna do when Keith (err, ummm, i mean rapchopper) chops your bolts, bad boys bad boys.......

By jakobi
From: moab, utah
Oct 9, 2012

I've never chopped a bolt but I'd like to give it up to those individuals who sacrifice their free time; time when they could be climbing and having fun. Thanks for keeping me safe from climbing rap-bolted routes, terrorists and gay marriage.

By ben jammin
From: Moab, UT
Oct 9, 2012

Well put Jakobi (whoever you are). Wow, well apparently people read this stuff and it has caused quite a stir. My apologies to Keith, I don't know who chopped this route, or any other route for that matter. Lets stay classy out there.

By Monkey Den Climber
From: moab, utah
Oct 10, 2012

Sam, it looks like you need to get some of your facts straightened out. Ethics have never left Wall Street, or Anywhere near Moab. Establish routes correctly, that way people enjoy the effort put into it.

By jason malczyk
From: General Delivery
Oct 10, 2012

Ok new rule, for every route you chop you put up two new ones I figure every one gets to make up rules why not make a productive one