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Castle Rock
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West Face, Direct Start 

Midnight Express 

Hueco: V14 Font: 8B+

Type: Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V14 Font: 8B+ [details]
FA: Tyler Landman December 2007
Page Views: 6,644
Submitted By: Peter Beal on Dec 17, 2007
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Climber: Daniel Woods.
Photo: Andy Mann.

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Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>


Up the hill from the south face of Castle is a low outcropping/boulder with an obvious arete and flake. Start low on sharp sidepull with your right hand and a very low sidepull for your left. There have been ascents done starting with the big pinch just left of the right sidepull but the FA was done with the first method. Battle your way past several desperate moves up the flake to a perilous finish at the lip.

Certainly one of the most classic lines on the Front Range with easy access and a compelling line. Should have been picked off years ago but Ty came up with the goods.


Look south uphill from the bridge below Country Club. Hidden a bit by trees.


A healthy number of pads and spotter.

Photos of Midnight Express Slideshow Add Photo
Luke Childers working the classic power line "Midnight Express."  Boulder Canyon, Colorado.
Luke Childers working the classic power line "Midn...
Midnight Express Boulder.
Midnight Express Boulder.
Photo beta for "Midnight Express (V14)."
BETA PHOTO: Photo beta for "Midnight Express (V14)."
Luke Childers getting ready to make the left hand bump and huge toss to the high upper rail!!
Luke Childers getting ready to make the left hand ...
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By Luke Childers
Aug 24, 2009

Holly... MAN... this is the mother of all lines!! I loved this problem more than life!! Although I couldn't do the first two moves, which is the bizz, I was able to work out the rest of the problem to my total satisfaction!! The line is like gold!!!! The top-out is scary because of the death landing but the holds were good enough for me to relax and top-out. Just need to put that opening sequence together and I will never ask for any thing ever again.

I'm an addict of "Midnight Express" now!! The opening sequence could take me the rest of my life but this is my forever until sent project!! Just a great problem with moves that exist only in our dreams. It's a must do!!

By Luke Childers
Aug 25, 2009

Worked on the bottom for a short while and got my butt off the ground... so that was exciting!! Now I've go to stick the chip like undercling and I will put this hog away. Still looking for the best solution for the opening moves on this sweetheart. I just love this line man!!! The top-out is still spooky though!