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Midnight Rock
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After Midnight 
Caboose, The 
Cage, The 
Caged Bird of Pray 
Cirque du Soleil 
Crack a Smile 
Deus Ex Machina 
Dyno Mart 
Engine, The 
Flake Out 
Geminae Cracks 
Grande Finale 
Hack a Drone 
Hammer Down 
Jet Stream 
Karma Chameleon 
Midnight Cowboy 
Midnight Express 
Pirate Radar 
Stroke of Midnight, The 
Union with Earth 
Weather Report 

Midnight Express 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Dan Hare and Jesse Guthrie
Page Views: 1,061
Submitted By: Peter Hunt on Aug 1, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Start of Midnight Express.


This is an excellent, sustained line with varied, interesting climbing from beginning to end. Start up the dihedral (10), waltz up an easy section to a tricky section in a corner (10 c/d). Finish up a crack that's harder than it looks.


Downhill and to the right of the large roof of Pirate Radio are two dihedrals. This starts up the easier right-hand one.


Rolofson says that 6-7 stoppers or 0.5-0.75 Aliens are useful. If you're a 10 leader, bring the gear. If it's your warm-up, don't bother.

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By david goldstein
Aug 6, 2006

A couple of interesting moves, but overall, I found this pitch so-so.

By John Rudolph
Oct 9, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

What a nice route. Bolts well spaced, but clean falls. Great variety of moves and techniques. Can be awkward, but if done right the moves are wonderful. Highly recommended.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 4, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Connect the bottom dihedral of Midnight Express to upper Stroke of Midnight for a nice 10a.

By Ross
From: Pinewood Springs
Jan 15, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

I didn't bring gear and I'm so happy I didn't fall, I thought it was hard for 10c.

From: Longmont, Co.
Aug 5, 2012

As of 8/5/12, there is a wasp nest just below the anchor. They were pissed and stung my partner.