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Midnight Rock
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After Midnight 
Caboose, The 
Cage, The 
Caged Bird of Pray 
Cirque du Soleil 
Crack a Smile 
Deus Ex Machina 
Dyno Mart 
Engine, The 
Flake Out 
Geminae Cracks 
Grande Finale 
Hack a Drone 
Hammer Down 
Jet Stream 
Karma Chameleon 
Midnight Cowboy 
Midnight Express 
Pirate Radar 
Stroke of Midnight, The 
Union with Earth 
Weather Report 

Midnight Cowboy 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Dan Hare and Matt Fetbrod
Page Views: 660
Submitted By: Peter Hunt on Aug 1, 2006
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This climb has three distinct crux sections separated by rests. Stem and crimp up the dihedral (11d), and then wander a bit left. Diagonal back right on a bulge with slopers (12a/b). After a 5.9 section, finish up a pumping headwall (11d).


Downhill and to the right of the large roof of Pirate Radio are two dihedrals. Midnight Cowboy starts up the left and more difficult of these.


15 or so bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

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By Ross
From: Pinewood Springs
Jan 28, 2013

Getting to the 12 section I was able to easily go around by mantling the big, horizontal crack, then joining the route before going around the corner to the 11d headwall which I passed and finished on the 10 next door. We later TR'ed this route, the upper 11d was too hard for me, but the 12 section wasn't too bad after unlocking the jog right via the topo.

By Pinklebear
Feb 3, 2013

Good climb, great rock, three distinct cruxes, and well-protected. Get on it!