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Midnight Rock
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Midnight Cowboy 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Dan Hare and Matt Fetbrod
Page Views: 660
Submitted By: Peter Hunt on Aug 1, 2006
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Description 

This climb has three distinct crux sections separated by rests. Stem and crimp up the dihedral (11d), and then wander a bit left. Diagonal back right on a bulge with slopers (12a/b). After a 5.9 section, finish up a pumping headwall (11d).


Location 

Downhill and to the right of the large roof of Pirate Radio are two dihedrals. Midnight Cowboy starts up the left and more difficult of these.


Protection 

15 or so bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.



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By Ross
From: Pinewood Springs
Jan 28, 2013

Getting to the 12 section I was able to easily go around by mantling the big, horizontal crack, then joining the route before going around the corner to the 11d headwall which I passed and finished on the 10 next door. We later TR'ed this route, the upper 11d was too hard for me, but the 12 section wasn't too bad after unlocking the jog right via the topo.

By Pinklebear
Feb 3, 2013

Good climb, great rock, three distinct cruxes, and well-protected. Get on it!