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Tatooine
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Force, The S 
Hyperspace S 
Jawa Jam S 
Leia Needs A Lightsaber S 
Leia's Leash S 
Midichlorophobia S 
Millennium Falcon S 
Phantom Menace, The S 
Scum and Villainy S 
Spaceballs S 
Star Destroyer S 
That's Not A Lightsaber S 
This Is A Lightsaber! S 
Triumphal Arch S 

Midichlorophobia 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Christian Burrell & Jon Bitter
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 835
Submitted By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Jun 1, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: Jawa jam is shown in yellow for reference. Red is ...

Description 

Dude...these little magical bugs control everything in the galaxy?! Creepy!

Right side of the Tatooine Wall, just right of Jawa Jam. Start in a trough feature and head up to a bulge. To clip bolt #2 move right a bit further and find a nice clip stance.

Pitch 1 is ok/fun but the really nice stuff is pitch 2! Begin 2 with a steep face left of the belay. After clipping bolt one enjoy a tricky section to a great flake topped by a cruxy bulge. The key hold is hard to see from below so you have to feel around some.

Continue through some fantastic rock and holds to a multi-tiered roof with really nice big holds. Mantle onto a great ledge. Great fun through the finish.

I should add that this was John's first FA effort and he did a great job.


Location 

Right of Jawa Jam in an obvious trough like feature to some ledges/bulges.


Protection 

P1 7 bolts to chains
P2 8 bolts to chains.

18 draws to do it as one long pitch with a 70m rope.



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By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jun 1, 2010

I would've given this a third star but the first pitch is still a bit dirty (just like most brand new lines are). But pitch 2 is so great it is worth it. A few rain storms (like the ones that wont stop this year) should really help.

By Jon Bitter
From: Waco, Tx
Jun 2, 2010

I'll say it's worth the 3rd star even with a little dirt. Beta photo to follow. 2nd pitch is amazing, get up there! Could be a little harder for shorter people, a few moves required a bit of a reach.

By Dylan Gene
From: Napa, CA
Jun 16, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Thanks for the new route guys. I really liked the first pitch even if it was kind of crumbly in some places. Good ledges for resting.

By KipHenrie
From: centerville, utah
May 26, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The roof is a hoot.

By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Jun 2, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Really enjoyed this route as one long pitch with a 70m rope. We tightened two bolts (wedge bolts) that were loose. Watch out for a loose death-block in the white band of rock, just left of the bolt line (can be avoided but be careful). There was another large block lower on the route that could be trundled with a crowbar. So many good long routes on this wall. Well worth the hike.