Midichlorophobia 5.8+
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BETA PHOTO: Jawa jam is shown in yellow for reference. Red is ...
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Description Dude...these little magical bugs control everything in the galaxy?! Creepy!
Right side of the Tatooine Wall, just right of Jawa Jam. Start in a trough feature and head up to a bulge. To clip bolt #2 move right a bit further and find a nice clip stance.
Pitch 1 is ok/fun but the really nice stuff is pitch 2! Begin 2 with a steep face left of the belay. After clipping bolt one enjoy a tricky section to a great flake topped by a cruxy bulge. The key hold is hard to see from below so you have to feel around some.
Continue through some fantastic rock and holds to a multi-tiered roof with really nice big holds. Mantle onto a great ledge. Great fun through the finish.
I should add that this was John's first FA effort and he did a great job.
Location Right of Jawa Jam in an obvious trough like feature to some ledges/bulges.
Protection Bolts and chains. A 70 m rope should get you to the ground from the top. But I would tie a knot in the end anyway.
| Comments on Midichlorophobia |
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By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jun 1, 2010
| I would've given this a third star but the first pitch is still a bit dirty (just like most brand new lines are). But pitch 2 is so great it is worth it. A few rain storms (like the ones that wont stop this year) should really help. |
By Jon Bitter
From: Waco, Tx
Jun 2, 2010
| I'll say it's worth the 3rd star even with a little dirt. Beta photo to follow. 2nd pitch is amazing, get up there! Could be a little harder for shorter people, a few moves required a bit of a reach. |
By Dylan Gene
From: Napa, CA
Jun 16, 2010
rating: 5.8+
| Thanks for the new route guys. I really liked the first pitch even if it was kind of crumbly in some places. Good ledges for resting. |
By KipHenrie
From: centerville, utah
May 26, 2011
rating: 5.10a
| The roof is a hoot. |
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