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Midget Widget

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bitchin' Widget T 
Crack-a-Lackin' T 
Damn the Man T 
Desert Rats Be Damned T 
Get Jiggy Widget T 
Got Widgets? T 
Heavy Metal Widget T 
Little Widgets T 
Sport Project 1 S 
Sport Project 2 S 
Sport Project 3 S 
T-Rad T 
Three Piece Chicken Widget Meal T 
Trad Project T 
Wicked Widget of the West T 
Widget of Oz T 
Widgets are for Kids T 
Rest Day:
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Midget Widget  


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Location: 43.53249, -111.70104 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 824
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jaren Watson on May 22, 2013
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Description 

Midget Widget is yet another local crag developed through the vision, hard work, and financial investment of Dean and Heather Lords. Others have contributed, but the lion's share of the time and effort belongs to these folks.
Currently, there is no printed guide detailing the climbs here, but I believe the next edition of Sweet Spots by Jerry Painter and Matt TeNgaio will describe this area (in more detail than I have available at present). Do yourself a favor and purchase this excellent guide. Currently, comprehensive information, photos, and maps can be found at Dean's blog: deanlords.blogspot.com/p/midge...
Sitting above and behind Ririe Reservoir is a band of broken basalt. Unlike the basalt that dominates our other local crags, the rock of Midget Widget has fractured neatly, offering desert-style splitters in our own backyard. Routes here are short, often starting on a base layer of severe choss, or worse, mudstone. However, once you access the cracks, fun and varied traditional climbing can be found.
The routes are short enough that considerable caution is necessary. Run it out at your own peril. You'll likely deck. Be wise and protect as appropriate. Some lines begin and end on faces, and in these cases, bolts protect that portion of the climb. All routes end at sport anchors.
Even though any individual line is, due to the nature of the cliff, somewhat limited, the area itself has the potential for significant development. Plenty of attractive, climbable cracks have not been equipped with anchors and need only a bit of imagination and a sense of adventure.
As with the climbing found at all our crags, please be respectful and always pack out more than you bring in.
Do NOT park at the lower road. The cliff is nearly impossible to access from below, and, more importantly, there is no established place to park. Always park at the parking lot and approach via the short hike from above.
About ratings: This will require a more thorough consensus. For now, I'm rating them between 5.8 and 5.10, but be aware that I have no real idea. You may find them easier or harder.
About projects: As of June 5, 2013, there are a few projects at Midget Widget, some sport, some trad. Be aware that these lines are possibly not fully equipped/cleaned/described/sent, etc. In other words, user discretion is advised. Stay tuned for further development.

Getting There 

On Highway 26, drive east from Idaho Falls until you reach Ririe Reservoir. Turn right, as if you were approaching the dam. Stay on the paved road until it turns to gravel. This gravel road leads for a few miles through farm fields, ultimately arriving at a fork. At this fork is a small gravel parking lot. Park here. A faint trail leads along the canyon rim for a quarter mile before dropping over the right edge (marked by a small cairn). A climber's trail traverses the side hill and navigates below the band of cliffs. The first established routes are roughly 100 yards from the start of the cliffs. Routes are listed from left to right as you encounter them from this trail.

17 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',7],['5.10',9],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Midget Widget:
Three Piece Chicken Widget Meal   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
Browse More Classics in Midget Widget

Featured Route For Midget Widget
Bart boldly approaches the crux block.

Three Piece Chicken Widget Meal 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  ID : Midget Widget
Start on unprotected but easy, pocketed slab to access the crack. Protect the move pulling onto the protruding block at right. Layback and trust your feet as you ascent this crux move. (A nice pocket on the face makes this move easier.) A large cam or hex protects this fist-width finish....[more]   Browse More Classics in ID

Comments on Midget Widget Add Comment
Show which comments
By benjaminleaton
From: Sandy, UT
May 24, 2013
Midget Widget Video
By Justin Brunson
From: Broomfield CO
May 31, 2013
A couple of years ago I spotted some anchors at the top of a vertical handcrack, so I went for it-- I got in over my head and ended up taking a pretty R-rated line through the blocky band at the bottom. I was probably way off route, but does anyone know what the route may have been called that I was trying to do?
By Jaren Watson
From: Rexburg, Idaho
Jun 5, 2013
T-Rad, perhaps? The blocky bottom is somewhat horrific here. Were you past Widget of Oz?
By Justin Brunson
From: Broomfield CO
Jun 5, 2013
Probably not. there was a really big ledge at the base of the handcrack. I never saw a bolt. I wish I could remember where I was. We had just finished the 5.6, so it may have been near that.