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Midge Squadron 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Rick Leitner, May 1998
Page Views: 1,664
Submitted By: Tony B on Jun 6, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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BETA PHOTO

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Description 

This route lies about 6-10 feet left of "Bad Girls Get Spanked" and on the same face. In the attached picture, "Bad Girls" is the climb drawn in.

Hike up the trail from Pratice Rock as for "Bad Girls; or "Mosquito Burrito." Climb past the first two bolts on the rounded face and slab, which are shared with "Bad Girls," then pull onto the left-most line of bolts on the face on the left and run to the top.

Unlike Bad Girls, this climb is reasonably secure and is not seeping water out of crux holds. The exception here being the intial leftward moves to separate yourself from the shared protion of the climbs, where blowing a clip would be a very bad idea.

The climb is relatively long and a 60M is a good idea to lower off of the route. I did not try this with a 50M, but it looked like it would be close.

See Mark Rolofson's Boulder Canyon Sport and Adventure Climber's Guide Volume II - The Upper Canyon for details.

Protection 

10 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


Photos of Midge Squadron Slideshow Add Photo
Lorant cruising....
Lorant cruising....

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By Bruce Pech
Jun 8, 2002

I thought the climb was harder than .10d -- although easier than the .11b/c rating it receives in Rolofson's guidebook. Maybe .11a if you head for the jug above and to right of the 5th bolt and hand traverse left to the 6th bolt.

It does,however, merit Rolofson's PG-13 rating. Blow the somewhat tricky 4th clip and you'll deck on the initial slab (even with a very short draw on the 3rd bolt).
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jan 11, 2003

Did this today. It was about 35 degrees, maybe less. Good route. Tricky moves traversing left above the roof and then up. Very sustained, then easier but strenuous tothe top. It felt much harder than the two other 11s I did today in this area, Oil Pan Hook Shot 11a/b and Assault of the Earth 11a on Cornerstone. Also much harder than a several 11a or b sport routes at Security Risk last week. If this were trad ratings, I would agree with 10d/11a, but compared to other sport climbs I've done recently, 11b/c seems correct. Of course all those other 11a/b sport climbs could have been overrated.

Does anyone else feel the two bolts on the slab leading to the wall are ridiculous? The move onto the slab is maybe 5.4, 10 feet off the ground. I don't think a 5.11 climber (even a sport climber :-)) needs a bolt for that. The second bolt, on the flat slab, might be useful for a short person clipping the third bolt at the lip. BTW, clip the third bolt with a locking biner to minimize the chance of hitting the slab clipping the 4th bolt.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 25, 2003

I figured that the bolts in the slab are belay bolts. This minimizes rope stretch so you wont deck on the slab. I still think the first two bolts off of the slab are in terrible locations, and hard to clip. One bolt properly placed could eliminate the other two AND remove the PG13 rating. But, I won't even start criticizing the bolting jobs in this area....
By Michael Amato
Apr 27, 2005

Climbed this route yesterday... several tenuous moves past the first three devious bolts (not counting the two ridiculous ones down low) ...11a/b sounds about right. A lot of fun.
By Casey H
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 23, 2008

I attempted this last night for the second time with the same result...I got worked! Im still new to leading 11s, but this seemed much harder then the 11s in Dream Canyon....
By Jessica Horn
From: June Lake, CA
Nov 22, 2008

The flake about half way up (there is a bolt on the flake itself) makes a hallow sound. It is a really big flake, and it would cause considerable damage if it came off. Has anyone else been on it recently and if so- do you feel comfortable with this?? I like this climb, but don't want to be a danger to others...
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Apr 30, 2009

Getting to the third bolt is a little scary, but the falls are clean if your belayer is on top of it. Also, clipping the second bolt provides some opportunity for injury, though this is certainly not the crux of the route. Much harder than Bad Girls Get Spanked.