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 ADVANCED
Middle Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Disinclination S 
Flashpoint S 
Free Fall S 
Incline Club S 
Midway T 
Moomin Papa's Little Adventure T 
Ripcord S 
Strange Science S,TR 
Supernatural S 
Tomb of Sorrows S 

Middle Wall  


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Location: 39.99843, -105.41208 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Avalon, showing most of the major features. Note:...

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Description 

The Middle Wall is a popular area at Avalon. The classic Strange Science (11c) is a big attraction. Free Fall (12a) is another great route just right of Strange Science. Around the corner to the right lies a big slab which has several popular moderate routes, including Incline Club (8), Tomb of Sorrows (9), and Disinclination (7).

Routes from left to right:

A. Moomin Papa's Little Adventure, 11+, 1p, 25', gear.
B. Supernatural, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.
C. Strange Science, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Free Fall, 11+, bolts. Arete.
E. Rip Cord, 12-, 1p, 50', bolts.
F. Disinclination, 6, 1p, 90', bolts. Corner.
G. Flashpoint, 10+, 1p, 40', bolts. above F.
H. Midway, 6, 1p, bolts & gear. Crack.
I. Incline Club, 7+, 1p, 100', bolts. Corner.
J. Tomb of Sorrows, 8, 1p, 75', bolts. Chimney.

Getting There 

Climb up the talus field above the Tyrolean Traverse. A dirt path starts at the top of the talus. Follow the path uphill a bit until the trail splits. Continue up the hill on the right trail branch. You'll eventually reach a steep wall with a scooped-out face; this is the route Strange Science. Free Fall is the arete to the right. The slab routes Disinclination and Incline Club start just up the hill to the right, at a right-facing corner. Tomb of Sorrows starts at the top of the slab in a chimney on the left.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.8 miles from here

10 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',4],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Wall:
Incline Club   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Supernatural   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
Strange Science   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Free Fall   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Ripcord   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Classics in Middle Wall

Featured Route For Middle Wall
Dave Goldstein below the crux.

Strange Science 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Middle Wall
I'll stick my neck out and give Strange Science three stars (at least by Boulder Canyon standards). The climb is pretty obvious as you hike up the faint trail to Avalon. The route follows a line of small flakes up the center of a beautiful forty-foot high scooped face, a pleasingly natural and independent line. The right arete, Free Fall, is bolted and (5.12a?) has a steep bouldery look, with a seam and closely-spaced bolts. Right again is a steep, short face then a short, scruffy,...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Middle Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Avalon Upper Wall Routes.  Photo taken from Upper Animal World.
BETA PHOTO: Avalon Upper Wall Routes. Photo taken from Upper ...

Comments on Middle Wall Add Comment
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By KARL P.
Sep 17, 2012
To whom it may concern -
We were climbing at the Middle Wall area yesterday (09/16) and found a rope bag and contents that someone had left behind. If you believe this to be yours, please contact me and describe the bag and its contents in order to reclaim it.

Thanks,
Karl
Duckzilla.kp@gmail.com