This route is climbed from the right set of top anchor coldshuts on the middle tier. It is located about 10 - 15' left of the distinct crack (5.7).
To start this climb, work your way up into the main bowl, and the work up and left to the pockety surface to finish the climb. The crux is getting yourself from the main bowl to the left side.
Interesting balancy motions, and an excellent warmup.
Set up a top rope from the bolts above the route. A longer sling (5'+) will be helpful, and a REALLY long sling (50'+) will be helpful if you want to back up the bolts.
|By Steve R.|
From: Oakland, CA
Dec 5, 2008
Only because this route is so short did it not bother me terribly that one of these bolts is spinning in its sleeve. I didn't see a good way to back it up, must be something but far away.
|By Logan Swartz|
From: Davis, CA
Jul 7, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Looks like the bolts are replaced with glue ins. This route shares the anchors with the "Unknown" 5.10 and is the left variation.