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Middle Tier
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L to R R to L Alpha
In the Buckets 
Jungle Book 
Pot Leaf Cave - Left Arete 
Two In One 
Unknown 5.10 
Unknown 5.9 
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YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 959
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 24, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Fun layback in the bottom section, good fist jams on the top section.


Friends and nuts up to 4 inches.

To set a top anchor, bring slings up to 10 feet.

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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 22, 2003
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

OK climb- but hard at it's grade. It's also a pain in the butt for only 35' of rock in my opinion. TR off of the small tree and off of some GREAT stoppers in the grooves to the left that were 'cut' by other ropes + a cam of two ~.4-.6" inches there. Lead with 1 set of cams from 1" to 4".

Not bad, but not good. I guess if the sun is right with respect to it, or the rest of the routes are taken, it's worthy, but not a destination or a "tick list" climb.

Sure was a lot of work for "5.6"... I'd say it was awkward and physically demanding. the holds are slopey and sandy. I'll go as far as to call it 5.8.

By Ami Bhatt
Dec 5, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

This is one of the sandiest and most fragile routes I've been on at Diablo. My guess is that the 5.6 rating was given before significant erosion took place. It felt more like a strengthy 5.8 (especially for those who lack long legs allowing stemming across the bottom cave).

I found the best thing about the route to be the mind trip aspect of holds falling apart beneath your shoes.

By Steve R.
From: Oakland, CA
Dec 5, 2008

And there's a perfect placement for my #11 hex ;-)

By Salamanizer
From: Vacaville Ca.
Feb 4, 2013

This route is called the "Beach Crack".

Get it? Cuz of all the sand!

It's solid 5.7.