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Middle Teton

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Buckingham (SE) Ridge T 
Dike Pinnacle North Face T 
Dike route T 
Ellingwood Couloir T 
Middle Finger, Northwall, Mega Motter  T 
Middle Teton Glacier Route T 
North Ridge T 
Northwest Ice Couloir T 
Southwest Couloir T 
Unsorted Routes:

Middle Teton Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 12,804'
Location: 43.73198, -110.80931 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 22,035
Administrators: Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: George Bell on Mar 19, 2007
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Description 

The Middle Teton is the 3rd highest peak in the Teton Range, and a familiar sight to all who climb the Grand Teton from Garnet Canyon. Although easier to climb than the Grand Teton, it sees far fewer ascents. One difficulty is that most routes on the Middle Teton are approached from the east up Garnet Canyon, so camp sites are by reservation and almost always full. One-day ascents are popular for this reason, although they involve 6000 feet of elevation gain.

Getting There 

The standard approach begins as for the Grand Teton, from the Lupine Meadows parking lot.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.7 miles from here

9 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',6],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Middle Teton

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Middle Teton:
Southwest Couloir   3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a     Trad, Alpine, 4000'   
North Ridge   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, Alpine, Grade II   
Middle Teton Glacier Route   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2     Trad, Ice, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1000'   
Northwest Ice Couloir   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2-3     Trad, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 1000'   
Dike route   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches   
Buckingham (SE) Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 3000'   
Dike Pinnacle North Face   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 600'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Middle Teton

Featured Route For Middle Teton
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking off the top of the Buckingham Ridge at the...

Buckingham (SE) Ridge 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  WY : Grand Teton National Park : Middle Teton
From the Meadows head up the south fork of Garnet Canyon. The Buckingham Ridge climbs the buttress forming the left side of the Ellingwood Couloir (see location below). This buttress is broad and many variations are possible.The standard route follows the right edge of the buttress for 4 pitches to a notch. Here the buttress is narrower and your options are fewer. From a belay on chockstones, climb the face of a tower. Continue upward 3 or 4 more pitches to the South Summit. You can bypass...[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

Photos of Middle Teton Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle Teton via Garnet Canyon
Middle Teton via Garnet Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle Teton, north side
Middle Teton, north side
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle Teton from the meadows
Middle Teton from the meadows
Rock Climbing Photo: The Middle from Garnet Canyon Trail
The Middle from Garnet Canyon Trail
Rock Climbing Photo: Campsite at South Fork of Garnet Canyon... which l...
BETA PHOTO: Campsite at South Fork of Garnet Canyon... which l...
Rock Climbing Photo: A winter trip up the Middle.
A winter trip up the Middle.
Rock Climbing Photo: Somewhere on the Middle Teton 3 Aug 2007 (if anyon...
Somewhere on the Middle Teton 3 Aug 2007 (if anyon...
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle Teton from Garnet Canyon.
Middle Teton from Garnet Canyon.
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle Teton from the Upper Saddle
Middle Teton from the Upper Saddle
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle Teton from Garnet Canyon trail photo: Chris...
BETA PHOTO: Middle Teton from Garnet Canyon trail photo: Chris...

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