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Middle Teton

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Buckingham (SE) Ridge 
Dike Pinnacle North Face 
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Middle Teton Glacier Route 
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Middle Teton 

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Elevation: 12,804'
Page Views: 32,186
Administrators: Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: George Bell on Mar 19, 2007
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Middle Teton via Garnet Canyon


The Middle Teton is the 3rd highest peak in the Teton Range, and a familiar sight to all who climb the Grand Teton from Garnet Canyon. Although easier to climb than the Grand Teton, it sees far fewer ascents. One difficulty is that most routes on the Middle Teton are approached from the east up Garnet Canyon, so camp sites are by reservation and almost always full. One-day ascents are popular for this reason, although they involve 6000 feet of elevation gain.

Getting There 

The standard approach begins as for the Grand Teton, from the Lupine Meadows parking lot.

8 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Teton:
Southwest Couloir   3rd 1- 1 I M 1a     Trad, Alpine, 4000'   
North Ridge   5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a     Trad, Alpine, Grade II   
Dike route   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Steep Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, 3 pitches   
Northwest Ice Couloir   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b AI2-3     Trad, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 1000'   
Buckingham (SE) Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 3000'   
Dike Pinnacle North Face   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Mod. Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, 4 pitches, 600'   
Browse More Classics in Middle Teton

Featured Route For Middle Teton
Looking off the top of the Buckingham Ridge at the Grand Teton.  The climber is on the upper part of the Ellingwood Couloir Route.

Buckingham (SE) Ridge 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b  WY : Grand Teton National Park : Middle Teton
From the Meadows head up the south fork of Garnet Canyon. The Buckingham Ridge climbs the buttress forming the left side of the Ellingwood Couloir (see location below). This buttress is broad and many variations are possible.The standard route follows the right edge of the buttress for 4 pitches to a notch. Here the buttress is narrower and your options are fewer. From a belay on chockstones, climb the face of a tower. Continue upward 3 or 4 more pitches to the South Summit. You can bypass...[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

Photos of Middle Teton Slideshow Add Photo
The Meadows in Winter
The Meadows in Winter
Middle Teton, north side
Middle Teton, north side
A winter trip up the Middle.
A winter trip up the Middle.
Campsite at South Fork of Garnet Canyon... which looks over to Disappointment Peak
BETA PHOTO: Campsite at South Fork of Garnet Canyon... which l...
Somewhere on the Middle Teton 3 Aug 2007 (if anyone knows where on the MT I am, as in route or area, please let me know...thanks!)
Somewhere on the Middle Teton 3 Aug 2007 (if anyon...
Middle Teton from Garnet Canyon trail <br />photo: Christian Baird. <br />
BETA PHOTO: Middle Teton from Garnet Canyon trail
photo: Chris...
Middle Teton from the Upper Saddle
Middle Teton from the Upper Saddle
Middle Teton from the meadows
Middle Teton from the meadows
The Middle from Garnet Canyon Trail
The Middle from Garnet Canyon Trail
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