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Middle Teton Conditions/Beta



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By Peter H
From Crested Butte, CO
Aug 5, 2012

I'm heading up to Grand Teton NP next week and looking to take a day to do the Middle Teton. From what I've read thus far...class 3, bring ice axe, crampons, helmet. Anyone have an average round trip time and if anyone has been up there recently snow/ice conditions...? Any advice/tips would be appreciated!


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By Gold Plated Rocket Pony
From Boulder, CO
Aug 5, 2012
yep

What route? We just got back from the Grand, camped at Moraine (just below the lower saddle) on 8/30 and 8/31. We were planning on doing the Jackson-Woodmency on the Middle after we did the Grand but some weather moved in so we didn't get to do anything on the Middle.

There is no need for an ice axe or crampons to get to the base of Middle and it doesn't have much snow on it at the moment so you should be good. This is of course a general statement as I'm not sure what route you were planning on doing.

From Lupine TH to the lower saddle we heard was around 3 to 4 hours. If you are going for a one day ascent and keep your packs light then I could see that. We had all our gear for camping, a full rack etc and it took us much longer than that.

You can check this out as well. Basically confirms no crampons or ice axe needed to the lower saddle:
tetonclimbinggrand.blogspot.com/p/lower-saddle-approach-2012>>>


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By Peter H
From Crested Butte, CO
Aug 5, 2012

Yes my fault, SW couloir.


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By Gold Plated Rocket Pony
From Boulder, CO
Aug 6, 2012
yep

For specific route conditions I'd just call the Rangers at Jenny Lake. They have the most recent and accurate info.


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By Peter H
From Crested Butte, CO
Aug 6, 2012

Appreciate it!


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By Mike Walley
From Louisville, CO
Aug 7, 2012
Mike on West Gully RMNP

Peter, you are fine without an axe or crampons. See my two photos on Forum posting: Grand/Cathedral Traverse. I just returned from both.


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