This is a fun climb. Start at the left-most low bolt on the main wall of the beehive, just left of Mountainside Hipsters. Continue straight up with nice hands and feet for 5 or so bolts and climb the staircase right to the anchors (which are shared with MH and Lucky Groove).
Per Arlo F Niederer: other routes have been squeezed in to the left, so the description of the location is different now. It is between "Alien Dave" and "Intoxica".
10 draws, including two for the anchor. Might want to leave some of the upper 3-4 draws as directionals if toproping to minimize pendulums.
Water Streak on left, and Middle Staircase on righ...
Bolt and route location. Vertical rope shows loca...
|Comments on Middle Staircase
|By Arlo F Niederer|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 26, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
Other routes have been squeezed in to the left, so the description of how to find the route doesn't apply.
Route is between "Alien Dave" and "Intoxica" in "The Voo" guide.
Not very sustained, crux a couple of easy mantles near the top.
I found the picture of the initial bolt useful to find the route.
The 2011 "Voo" guide by Orenczak and Lynn has a photo of routes taken from a distance, difficult to identify routes with. Even harder since other ones have been squeezed in.
Middle staircase is not included in "The Voo," and to add to the confusion, the Mountainside Hipsters route name has been changed to Aspen Fantasy Land, I assume because it was retro bolted after being initially climbed as a trad route.