|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 90'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||FKA: Bob Stuckert, Josh Porter, and Zach Orenczak|
|Submitted By:||Whitham on Oct 21, 2010|
|Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Middle Staircase||Add Comment|
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By Arlo F Niederer
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 26, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Other routes have been squeezed in to the left, so the description of how to find the route doesn't apply.
Route is between "Alien Dave" and "Intoxica" in "The Voo" guide.
Not very sustained, crux a couple of easy mantles near the top.
I found the picture of the initial bolt useful to find the route.
The 2011 "Voo" guide by Orenczak and Lynn has a photo of routes taken from a distance, difficult to identify routes with. Even harder since other ones have been squeezed in.
Middle staircase is not included in "The Voo," and to add to the confusion, the Mountainside Hipsters route name has been changed to Aspen Fantasy Land, I assume because it was retro bolted after being initially climbed as a trad route.