Middle Spire Rock Climbing
Kevin Chapin gets perplexed as the knobs run out a...
The most popular spire at Phantom Spires is the middle spire. It's easy to get to, it's got a wide variety of routes (5.5 - 5.12) on terrain that varies from very slabby to moderatly overhung.
All the rock is frictiony granite that is often quite knobby.
As a spire in the middle of an open field, the rock is exposed to sun on different sides at different times of the day. The West side can be quite windy, since the exposed boulder field heading down the hill grabs gusts and throws them up past the spire.
Kandyland (5.10c) is an awesome traditional lead using slings on solid huge knobs for most of the route.
All routes descend via rappel, as there is no really easy way to the top of the spire.
Approach time: 10 minutes.
From the main parking lot, head uphill to the west out of theparking lot on a moderately wide trail leading through the trees. This trail will wander up and down hillsides through a gully of sorts aiming directly at the Middle Spire, which can be seen at times. The approach trail will run into the Northeast corner of the spire.
Weather station 12.2 miles from here
22 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Middle Spire
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Middle Spire
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Middle Spire:
Anal Sex 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
X Trad, 1 pitch
Hard Up 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Penny Candy 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Fancy Dancin' 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 90'
The Prow 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Candyass 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Featured Route For Middle Spire
Middle Spire, north side routes.
As seen from approach trail from parking lot ~ 3-5...
As seen from base of Fear of Flying and Gingerbrea...
Middle spire at sunset with nearly full moon risin...
Middle Spire in the late November evening light.