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Middle Spire

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anal Sex T 
Candyass T 
Candyland T 
Chainsaw Willie T,TR 
Clam, The T 
Cockabooty T 
Corn Flakes T 
Fancy Dancin' T,S 
Hard Up T 
Harding's Other Chimney T 
Hooray Hooray! T,TR 
Lean And Mean T 
Leaner and Meaner T 
Over Easy T 
Penny Candy S 
Prow, The S 
Rain Song S,TR 
Regular Route T 
Slowdancer T 
Tyro's Test Piece T 
Unknown T 
Unnamed T 

Middle Spire Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.7875, -120.2441 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 11,268
Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 20, 2005
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Description 

The most popular spire at Phantom Spires is the middle spire. It's easy to get to, it's got a wide variety of routes (5.5 - 5.12) on terrain that varies from very slabby to moderatly overhung.

All the rock is frictiony granite that is often quite knobby.

As a spire in the middle of an open field, the rock is exposed to sun on different sides at different times of the day. The West side can be quite windy, since the exposed boulder field heading down the hill grabs gusts and throws them up past the spire.

Kandyland (5.10c) is an awesome traditional lead using slings on solid huge knobs for most of the route.

All routes descend via rappel, as there is no really easy way to the top of the spire.

Getting There 

Approach time: 10 minutes.

From the main parking lot, head uphill to the west out of theparking lot on a moderately wide trail leading through the trees. This trail will wander up and down hillsides through a gully of sorts aiming directly at the Middle Spire, which can be seen at times. The approach trail will run into the Northeast corner of the spire.

Climbing Season



Weather station 12.2 miles from here

22 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',3],['5.8',4],['5.9',6],['5.10',5],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Middle Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Middle Spire:
Over Easy   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad   
Anal Sex   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X     Trad, 1 pitch   
Regular Route   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 130'   
Lean And Mean   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   
Corn Flakes   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad   
Hooray Hooray!   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Hard Up   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad   
Penny Candy   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Fancy Dancin'   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 90'   
The Prow   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Candyland   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad   
Candyass   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Trad   
Leaner and Meaner   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Middle Spire

Featured Route For Middle Spire
Rock Climbing Photo: Candyland heads straight up the face. The rope see...

Candyland 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Middle Spire
This climbs an overhanging knobby wall, with a thin crack at the top.This climb faces west....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Middle Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle Spire, north side routes.
Middle Spire, north side routes.
Rock Climbing Photo: As seen from approach trail from parking lot ~ 3-5...
As seen from approach trail from parking lot ~ 3-5...
Rock Climbing Photo: As seen from base of Fear of Flying and Gingerbrea...
As seen from base of Fear of Flying and Gingerbrea...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Reeves candyland
Mike Reeves candyland
Rock Climbing Photo: A wet Middle Spire.
A wet Middle Spire.
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle spire at sunset with nearly full moon risin...
Middle spire at sunset with nearly full moon risin...
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle Spire
Middle Spire
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle Spire in the late November evening light.
Middle Spire in the late November evening light.

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