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Middle Spire
Mountain Hardwear Trango 3.1 Tent - 3 Person

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Lowa Weisshorn GTX Boot - Men's

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Mad Rock Con-Tact Climbing Shoe - Men's

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Metolius Mini Jugs - 15 Pack

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Patagonia Women's Slopestyle Hoody

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Lift Ascender - Right

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Edelweiss Axis II ARC Rope

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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anal Sex 
Candyass 
Candyland 
Clam, The 
Cockabooty 
Corn Flakes 
Fancy Dancin' 
Hard Up 
Harding's Other Chimney 
Hooray Hooray! 
Lean And Mean 
Leaner and Meaner 
Over Easy 
Penny Candy 
Prow, The 
Rain Song 
Regular Route 
Slowdancer 
Tyro's Test Piece 
Unknown 
Unnamed 

Middle Spire 


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Lat, Long: 38.7875, -120.2441 Map
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Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 20, 2005

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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Kevin Chapin gets perplexed as the knobs run out a...

Description 

The most popular spire at Phantom Spires is the middle spire. It's easy to get to, it's got a wide variety of routes (5.7 - 5.12) on terrain that varies from very slabby to moderatly overhung.

All the rock is frictiony granite that is often quite knobby.

As a spire in the middle of an open field, the rock is exposed to sun on different sides at different times of the day. The West side can be quite windy, since the exposed boulder field heading down the hill grabs gusts and throws them up past the spire.

Kandyland (5.10c) is an awesome traditional lead using slings on solid huge knobs for most of the route.

All routes descend via rappel, as there is no really easy way to the top of the spire.


Getting There 

Approach time: 10 minutes.

From the main parking lot, head uphill to the west out of theparking lot on a moderately wide trail leading through the trees. This trail will wander up and down hillsides through a gully of sorts aiming directly at the Middle Spire, which can be seen at times. The approach trail will run into the Northeast corner of the spire.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Spire:
Over Easy   5.7     Trad   
Regular Route   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 130 feet   
Anal Sex   5.8 X     Trad, 1 pitch   
Unknown   5.9     Trad   
Slowdancer   5.9     Trad   
Hard Up   5.9     Trad   
Corn Flakes   5.9     Trad   
Lean And Mean   5.9     Trad, 2 pitches   
Penny Candy   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   
The Prow   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   
Candyland   5.10c     Trad   
Candyass   5.10d R     Trad   
Leaner and Meaner   5.11b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Browse More Classics in Middle Spire

Featured Route For Middle Spire
Candyland heads straight up the face. The rope seen in the picture is actually going up Candy Ass (5.10d), which is the sport route immediately left of the route.  Look for the imposing, yet simple slab leading up to the 12"+ knobs.

Candyland 5.10c  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Middle Spire
This climbs an overhanging knobby wall, with a thin crack at the top.This climb faces west....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Middle Spire Slideshow Add Photo
A wet Middle Spire.

A wet Middle Spire.

Top of the east face: beautiful views and good pards make for awesome days out! <br /> <br />September 2009

Top of the east face: beautiful views and good par...

Middle Spire in the late November evening light.

Middle Spire in the late November evening light.

As seen from approach trail from parking lot ~ 3-5 minutes in.

BETA PHOTO: As seen from approach trail from parking lot ~ 3-5...

As seen from base of Fear of Flying and Gingerbread Man.  Climber on Corn Flakes.

BETA PHOTO: As seen from base of Fear of Flying and Gingerbrea...

Middle Spire, north side routes.

BETA PHOTO: Middle Spire, north side routes.