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Middle Section

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beaver Cleaver T 
C. W. Hicks Direct T 
Camptown Races (variation) T 
Candyland T 
Cat's Pajamas T 
Chameleon T 
Cinnamon Girl T 
Classic, The T 
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 
Coatimundi Whiteout T 
Crack Lover's Variation T 
Crisco Way T 
Deep Yogurt  T 
Good Action S 
Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU), The T 
Green Savior T 
Gunsmoke T 
Hassayampa T 
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 
High Exposure Exit T,S 
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 
Kingpin T 
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 
Once Upon a Time T 
Reunion T 
Said and Done T 
Slammer Jam, The T 
Sweet Acidophilus T 
Tom Thumb T 
Triple Direct T 
Twin Cracks T 
Waterstreak Delight T,S 
Witblitz T 
Unsorted Routes:

Middle Section Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,500'
Location: 34.6269, -112.55417 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 18,259
Administrators: Greg Opland, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Greg Opland on Jan 31, 2006
Forecast:
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BETA PHOTO: View of some routes in the Middle Section of Grani...

Falcon Closures from February 2 until mid-July. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Middle Section (for lack of a better name) contains the bulk of the routes at Granite Mountain, running from Magician over to the right side of the Flying Buttress and the Coke Bottle route.** These are the longest, hardest, and arguably best routes at Granite Mountain, running up to 450 feet in length.

  • This separation was originally established by Jim Waugh in his 1982 Granite Mountain guide. I may try to break this up a bit more for ease of finding routes later.

Getting There 

Access for routes in the Middle Section depends on which route for the most part. Routes on the left end, say from Magician over to Green Savior or so, can be more easily accessed from the trail up to the Swamp Slabs. Routes from (this is approximate) Green Savior over to Coke Bottle are easier to get to by following the climber's trail up to the Front Porch area, racking up, and then hiking to your objective.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.6 miles from here

33 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',17],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',7],['5.9',4],['5.10',11],['5.11',5],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Middle Section

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Middle Section:
High Exposure Exit   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   
The Classic   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Green Savior   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 350'   
Cat's Pajamas   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 300'   
Said and Done   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches   
Crack Lover's Variation   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Magnolia Thunderpussy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches   
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Camptown Races (variation)   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches   
Witblitz   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   
Reunion   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 250'   
Waterstreak Delight   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches   
Kingpin   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 5 pitches, 450'   
The Slammer Jam   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches   
The Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux)   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Candyland   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 5 pitches, 450'   
Coatimundi Whiteout   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 5 pitches   
Help Me Mr. Wizard   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch   
Twin Cracks   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
Gunsmoke   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Middle Section

Featured Route For Middle Section
Rock Climbing Photo: Asking for help from the wizard

Help Me Mr. Wizard 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Middle Section
As you are gazing up at the Classic, Said and Done, or Reunion, drift ever so slightly left and check out the giant flake splitter that defines Help me Mr. Wizard. This is an exciting pitch which will test nerves and staying power alike, and is probably PG-13.Climb crack up to a point where there is a little roof. This section is kind of spicy. Climb out the roof around right to reach the splitter section to a small rest stance. Climbing it straight on like a splitter is the way to go. Bette...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Photos of Middle Section Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Flying Buttress
The Flying Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Old times on the Front Porch (L to R) Paul Davidso...
Old times on the Front Porch (L to R) Paul Davidso...
Rock Climbing Photo: On the first pitch of the Hotline, Granite Mouunta...
On the first pitch of the Hotline, Granite Mouunta...
Rock Climbing Photo: Philipo Condrey rappelling Coke Bottle after the f...
Philipo Condrey rappelling Coke Bottle after the f...

Comments on Middle Section Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dean Hoffman
Jan 1, 2009
70m rope will get you safely down the Coke Bottle Raps. Makes the hike in a bit more mellow and you don't have to worry about that pesky tag line.
By Paul Davidson
Jan 23, 2009
Hanging out on Front Porch once a few years back with Ron Beauchamp.
We'd just done the flying buttress w/ Reunion finish.

Sunset is happening and suddenly a lotta critters start coming out of Reunion crack. I thought at first they were bats but decided later they were probably swifts. After trying to count them all and reaching about 300, I gave up. It went on for 10 or 20 minutes.
I guess they like living way back in that crack.

I've spent more than a few evenings on the Front Porch and had never seen anything like this.

It wasn't quite the Carlsbad bat swarm but it was mighty impressive.
By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Nov 7, 2009
Paul- I heard those critters for the first time this year on the Reunion crack- kinda spooky and makes you not want to stick your fingers in too far- not that you can anyway

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