Middle Section Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: View of some routes in the Middle Section of Grani...
The Middle Section (for lack of a better name) contains the bulk of the routes at Granite Mountain, running from Magician over to the right side of the Flying Buttress and the Coke Bottle route.** These are the longest, hardest, and arguably best routes at Granite Mountain, running up to 450 feet in length.
- This separation was originally established by Jim Waugh in his 1982 Granite Mountain guide. I may try to break this up a bit more for ease of finding routes later.
Access for routes in the Middle Section depends on which route for the most part. Routes on the left end, say from Magician over to Green Savior or so, can be more easily accessed from the trail up to the Swamp Slabs. Routes from (this is approximate) Green Savior over to Coke Bottle are easier to get to by following the climber's trail up to the Front Porch area, racking up, and then hiking to your objective.
Weather station 6.6 miles from here
33 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',17],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Middle Section
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Middle Section
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Middle Section:
Witblitz 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
R Trad, 5 pitches, 500'
Reunion 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 4 pitches, 250'
Kingpin 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
PG13 Trad, 5 pitches, 450'
Candyland 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 5 pitches, 450'
Twin Cracks 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Gunsmoke 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Featured Route For Middle Section
Help Me Mr. Wizard 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c AZ
: Central Arizona
: ... : Middle Section
As you are gazing up at the Classic, Said and Done, or Reunion, drift ever so slightly left and check out the giant flake splitter that defines Help me Mr. Wizard. This is an exciting pitch which will test nerves and staying power alike, and is probably PG-13.Climb crack up to a point where there is a little roof. This section is kind of spicy. Climb out the roof around right to reach the splitter section to a small rest stance. Climbing it straight on like a splitter is the way to go. Bette...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
Old times on the Front Porch (L to R) Paul Davidso...
On the first pitch of the Hotline, Granite Mouunta...
Philipo Condrey rappelling Coke Bottle after the f...
By Dean Hoffman
Jan 1, 2009
70m rope will get you safely down the Coke Bottle Raps. Makes the hike in a bit more mellow and you don't have to worry about that pesky tag line.
By Paul Davidson
Jan 23, 2009
Hanging out on Front Porch once a few years back with Ron Beauchamp.
We'd just done the flying buttress w/ Reunion finish.
Sunset is happening and suddenly a lotta critters start coming out of Reunion crack. I thought at first they were bats but decided later they were probably swifts. After trying to count them all and reaching about 300, I gave up. It went on for 10 or 20 minutes.
I guess they like living way back in that crack.
I've spent more than a few evenings on the Front Porch and had never seen anything like this.
It wasn't quite the Carlsbad bat swarm but it was mighty impressive.
From: Prescott, AZ
Nov 7, 2009
Paul- I heard those critters for the first time this year on the Reunion crack- kinda spooky and makes you not want to stick your fingers in too far- not that you can anyway