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Middle Section

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beaver Cleaver T 
C. W. Hicks Direct T 
Camptown Races (variation) T 
Candyland T 
Cat's Pajamas T 
Cinnamon Girl T 
Classic, The T 
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 
Coatimundi Whiteout T 
Crack Lover's Variation T 
Deep Yogurt  T 
Good Action S 
Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU), The T 
Green Savior T 
Gunsmoke T 
Hassayampa T 
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 
High Exposure Exit T,S 
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 
Kingpin T 
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 
Once Upon a Time T 
Reunion T 
Said and Done T 
Slammer Jam, The T 
Sweet Acidophilus T 
Tom Thumb T 
Twin Cracks T 
Waterstreak Delight T,S 
Witblitz T 
Unsorted Routes:

Middle Section 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,500'
Location: 34.6269, -112.55417 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 109,766
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Greg Opland on Jan 31, 2006
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The "cleaver" as seen from above on the east side.
Falcon closures. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Middle Section (for lack of a better name) contains the bulk of the routes at Granite Mountain, running from Magician over to the right side of the Flying Buttress and the Coke Bottle route.** These are the longest, hardest, and arguably best routes at Granite Mountain, running up to 450 feet in length.

  • This separation was originally established by Jim Waugh in his 1982 Granite Mountain guide. I may try to break this up a bit more for ease of finding routes later.


Getting There 

Access for routes in the Middle Section depends on which route for the most part. Routes on the left end, say from Magician over to Green Savior or so, can be more easily accessed from the trail up to the Swamp Slabs. Routes from (this is approximate) Green Savior over to Coke Bottle are easier to get to by following the climber's trail up to the Front Porch area, racking up, and then hiking to your objective.


Climbing Season


30 Total Routes


['4 Stars',17],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',4],['5.9',4],['5.10',11],['5.11',5],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Section:
High Exposure Exit   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   
The Classic   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Green Savior   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 350'   
Cat's Pajamas   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 300'   
Crack Lover's Variation   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Said and Done   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches   
Magnolia Thunderpussy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches   
Witblitz   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   
Reunion   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 250'   
Waterstreak Delight   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches   
The Slammer Jam   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches   
The Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux)   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Kingpin   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 5 pitches, 450'   
Candyland   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 5 pitches, 450'   
Coatimundi Whiteout   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 5 pitches   
C. W. Hicks Direct   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Help Me Mr. Wizard   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad   
Twin Cracks   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
Gunsmoke   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   
Browse More Classics in Middle Section

Featured Route For Middle Section
Kyle Kent crimping up the cinnamon colored face.

Cinnamon Girl 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Middle Section
This route climbs the easy slab just left of Coatimundi Whiteout's start. Pitch 1: 5.9 R/X - Start on the easy slab below Waterstreak delight. Climb up about 15 feet left of Waterstreak and start running it out clipping 3 bolts as you head to Kingpin's second pitch belay. This pitch is about 180 feet. You can add a pitch and belay about 50 feet up, but I HIGHLY recommend against this option.Pitch 2: 5.7 R - Climb the face just right of Kingpin's 3rd pitch towards the large flake crack shared...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Local Information for Middle Section
Photos of Middle Section Slideshow Add Photo
View of some routes in the Middle Section of Granite Mountain
BETA PHOTO: View of some routes in the Middle Section of Grani...
Old times on the Front Porch (L to R) Paul Davidson, Steve Grossman, Jim Donini, Larry Coats, Gordon Douglass, Susie Walkup, Philipo Condrey (circa 1978)
Old times on the Front Porch (L to R) Paul Davidso...
On the first pitch of the Hotline, Granite Mouuntain
On the first pitch of the Hotline, Granite Mouunta...
The Flying Buttress
The Flying Buttress
Philipo Condrey rappelling Coke Bottle after the first "no hands" ascent (note that Phil lost his hands in a Civil War re-enactment!)
Philipo Condrey rappelling Coke Bottle after the f...
Comments on Middle Section Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dean Hoffman
Jan 1, 2009

70m rope will get you safely down the Coke Bottle Raps. Makes the hike in a bit more mellow and you don't have to worry about that pesky tag line.

By Paul Davidson
Jan 23, 2009

Hanging out on Front Porch once a few years back with Ron Beauchamp.
We'd just done the flying buttress w/ Reunion finish.

Sunset is happening and suddenly a lotta critters start coming out of Reunion crack. I thought at first they were bats but decided later they were probably swifts. After trying to count them all and reaching about 300, I gave up. It went on for 10 or 20 minutes.
I guess they like living way back in that crack.

I've spent more than a few evenings on the Front Porch and had never seen anything like this.

It wasn't quite the Carlsbad bat swarm but it was mighty impressive.

By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Nov 7, 2009

Paul- I heard those critters for the first time this year on the Reunion crack- kinda spooky and makes you not want to stick your fingers in too far- not that you can anyway