Middle Rock Rock Climbing
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Middle Rock is the long, east-to-west oriented dome that lies just to the north of the Mosaic Rock
. Most, or maybe all, of the established routes ascend the southern face of the dome, which Jackson describes as being "characterized by sweeping slabs capped by diagonaling crack systems and steeper headwalls and overhangs."
Several moderate to hard trad routes ascend the left side of the south face, some moderate bolted lines are near the center, and a moderate trad route and three hard bolted lines lie farther to the right side.
Most commonly approached by circling around the western end of the Mosaic Rock and passing through the gap between Mosaic and West Rock #1
to reach the left end of the south face of Middle Rock. An easy walk on well-defined user trails.
Weather station 1.1 miles from here
5 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Middle Rock
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Middle Rock:
Featured Route For Middle Rock
Cowboy Bob's Chickenhead Delight 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b NM
: Taos Area
: ... : Middle Rock
When looking up at the top of Middle Rock from the base of the south face one can't help but notice this steep, short face of awesome chicken heads. Cowboy Bob's Chicken Head Delight ascends straight up the face through some of the coolest chicken heads I've ever pulled down on. Unfortunately, the first half of the route is easy climbing before switching to the steep, featured climbing--you'll be wishing it was longer.Start at the base of the south face on the far left side below the lon...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 27, 2012
"Cowgirl Pump" (5.11a R). One guidebook shows it left of the "Bats in the Belfry" crack, the other shows it to the right. It's supposed to have a bolt on the steep part, which I looked for, but didn't see. Anyone climbed this and can point me in the right direction?