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North End
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Middle Road 
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Middle Road 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Porter Jarrard and Eric Zschiesche
Page Views: 2,339
Submitted By: sean barb on Feb 8, 2009
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PJ on early ascent...note grimace and heinous clip...
2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A very sustained line up the center of the wall. Hard clips and a sandbagged grade contribute to make this one a very proud send. A psyche/head testpiece.


Location 

Middle of the wall, sandwiched in between Nicotine and Boogie Til Ya Puke.


Protection 

Small cams and one large piece for the finishing flare. 2 bolts, a pin, and a small steel nut are the in-situ gear. An anchor of slung nuts will put you back on the ground after you get through the difficult climbing.



Photos of Middle Road Slideshow Add Photo
Greg Loomis on the first crux of Middle Road
Greg Loomis on the first crux of Middle Road
  Eric Zschiesche posing for a photo,.. after an ascent of a Nside classic in 1987. As I recall, Porter J. tethered the rope to a rock, and wandered off and up to snap a few pics. <br />   The rock is as it is,... in spite of our scrawling.
Eric Zschiesche posing for a photo,.. after an a...
Greg Loomis sticking the crux move on Middle Road
Greg Loomis sticking the crux move on Middle Road
Comments on Middle Road Add Comment
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By erik danielson
Apr 29, 2009

this route is 12d

By gloomis
Oct 7, 2013

I'll give a nod for 12d. My favorite on the wall so far

By gloomis
Oct 17, 2013

Anchor revamped October 2013