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Middle Peak
Vapor Wmns - Turquoise 37

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Select Route:
East Face 
Gunrunner 

Middle Peak 


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Elevation: 8,200'
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Administrators: Peter Franzen, Kristine Hoffman, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: blakeherrington on Dec 22, 2008

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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Pitch 1 of Gunrunner

Description 

The highest of the Gunsight peaks, the notch between the middle and north peaks forms the namesake "V" slot. The rock is white granite, some of the best in the cascades. Major faces exist on the East (Blue Glacier) and West (Chickamin Glacier) sides.


Getting There 

Distinctly Alpine


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Peak:
Gunrunner   5.10 C1 Easy Snow     Trad, Aid, Snow, Alpine, 18 pitches, Grade IV   
East Face   5.10d     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III   
Browse More Classics in Middle Peak

Featured Route For Middle Peak
Dan Hilden aiding the short (easily avoidable) pendulum.

Gunrunner 5.10 C1 Easy Snow  WA : North Cascades : ... : Middle Peak
This route is the complete N->S traverse of the range, summiting the Northeast, North, Middle, and South peaks. The route will require carrying over, likely with ice axes and crampons. It begins and end on glaciers, although for us it began on the Chickamin and ended on the Blue Glacier.P1. 5.10- up splitter hand crack left of a dihedral with a crack in it. Beautiful grey rock. There’s a great looking finger crack just to the left of this as well. Belay at the ridge crestp2 was an e...[more]   Browse More Classics in WA