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Middle Palisade

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Northeast Face T 

Middle Palisade Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 14,012'
Location: 37.07, -118.47 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,010
Administrators: Chris Owen, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: 426 on Mar 6, 2007
Forecast:
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Just when you think you're bad-ass for climbing MI...

Description 

Pretty secluded peak in the South Fork region of Big Pine drainage.

Alpine rock, fun but does have some choss factor. Spectacular summit.

Did not need crampons in July 2006. Should have had an axe, but was not necessary.


Getting There 

Same directions as for Norman Clyde peak. Once you are above Finger Lake it is obvious that you will cross a large bench area (usually snow covered). Work along or on the glacier to approach the start of the routes.

Climbing Season

For the 09 - Palisades and Surrounding Peaks area.

Weather station 8.6 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Middle Palisade

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Middle Palisade:
Northeast Face   3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a     Trad, Alpine, 1000'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Middle Palisade

Featured Route For Middle Palisade
Rock Climbing Photo: Parker tackles the final step before the summit.

Northeast Face 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a  CA : High Sierra : ... : Middle Palisade
There are a variety of ways to access this route. The route I used starts from the moraine that splits the Middle Palisade glacier. Up and to your right is a somewhat horizontal band of red rock. Cross the 'schrund and follow the red band till you've climbed into a large gully. Careful, lots of loose rock on the band. Once in the gully, go straight up on great class 3/4 rock past the first gendarme (on your left)to a split in the gully. Keep to the left and continue climbing to the top of the gu...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Middle Palisade Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo from the summit of Middle Pal (late summer 2...
Photo from the summit of Middle Pal (late summer 2...
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle Pal on the left.  You can see the approach ...
Middle Pal on the left. You can see the approach ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Finger Lake at noon.
Finger Lake at noon.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the standard route (gully).
Looking down the standard route (gully).
Rock Climbing Photo: Morning alpenglow as seen from Finger Lake.
Morning alpenglow as seen from Finger Lake.
Rock Climbing Photo: Loo with a view, Middle Palisade, July 2004
Loo with a view, Middle Palisade, July 2004
Rock Climbing Photo: The summit "crown" of Middle Pal.
The summit "crown" of Middle Pal.
Rock Climbing Photo: Camp at Brainard Lake.
Camp at Brainard Lake.
Rock Climbing Photo: From Finger Lake
From Finger Lake
Rock Climbing Photo: Finger Lake and The Thumb
Finger Lake and The Thumb
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle Palisade
Middle Palisade
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle Palisade on the left, as seen from the summ...
Middle Palisade on the left, as seen from the summ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Finger Lake in the still morning.
Finger Lake in the still morning.
Rock Climbing Photo: The summit of Middle Palisade, July 2004.
The summit of Middle Palisade, July 2004.
Rock Climbing Photo: Early morning looking down on Finger Lake.
Early morning looking down on Finger Lake.

Comments on Middle Palisade Add Comment
Show which comments
By Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Apr 14, 2008
This beautiful peak is too often overlooked. A great outing.
By Matteo Fiori
From: Mariposa, CA
Oct 7, 2014
Really stellar route. If camping in the backcountry, I recommend hiking in at dusk to avoid the excessive heat of the day (I left the parking lot at 7pm, arriving at Finger lake at 9:30, the final 30 min w/ headlamp). 6pm would be good. Also, from the morraine, there is easy access up and left about 20 meters, which involves some easy snow walking. From there, climb a 3-4th class chimney, working your way right to the great climbing along the Clyde Route. Excellente opportunity for incredibly exposed, easy 5th class climbing up high, finish to the north of the true summit. Fun times!
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Nov 19, 2014
Wonderful little article here
By Rude Boy
From: San Francisco, CA
Aug 30, 2015
More info on an alternate route here

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