Middle Palisade Rock Climbing
Just when you think you're bad-ass for climbing MI...
Pretty secluded peak in the South Fork region of Big Pine drainage.
Alpine rock, fun but does have some choss factor. Spectacular summit.
Did not need crampons in July 2006. Should have had an axe, but was not necessary.
Same directions as for Norman Clyde peak. Once you are above Finger Lake it is obvious that you will cross a large bench area (usually snow covered). Work along or on the glacier to approach the start of the routes.
Weather station 8.6 miles from here
1 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Middle Palisade
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Middle Palisade:
Featured Route For Middle Palisade
Northeast Face 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a CA
: High Sierra
: ... : Middle Palisade
There are a variety of ways to access this route. The route I used starts from the moraine that splits the Middle Palisade glacier. Up and to your right is a somewhat horizontal band of red rock. Cross the 'schrund and follow the red band till you've climbed into a large gully. Careful, lots of loose rock on the band. Once in the gully, go straight up on great class 3/4 rock past the first gendarme (on your left)to a split in the gully. Keep to the left and continue climbing to the top of the gu...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Photo from the summit of Middle Pal (late summer 2...
Middle Pal on the left. You can see the approach ...
Looking down the standard route (gully).
Morning alpenglow as seen from Finger Lake.
Loo with a view, Middle Palisade, July 2004
The summit "crown" of Middle Pal.
Finger Lake and The Thumb
Middle Palisade on the left, as seen from the summ...
Finger Lake in the still morning.
The summit of Middle Palisade, July 2004.
Early morning looking down on Finger Lake.
By Matteo Fiori
From: Mariposa, CA
Oct 7, 2014
Really stellar route. If camping in the backcountry, I recommend hiking in at dusk to avoid the excessive heat of the day (I left the parking lot at 7pm, arriving at Finger lake at 9:30, the final 30 min w/ headlamp). 6pm would be good. Also, from the morraine, there is easy access up and left about 20 meters, which involves some easy snow walking. From there, climb a 3-4th class chimney, working your way right to the great climbing along the Clyde Route. Excellente opportunity for incredibly exposed, easy 5th class climbing up high, finish to the north of the true summit. Fun times!
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Nov 19, 2014
Wonderful little article here
By Rude Boy
From: San Francisco, CA
Aug 30, 2015
More info on an alternate route here