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BETA PHOTO: Middle Man is on the far right side of the topo (l...
This is not a separate route but a new start variation to Fat Man. I believe it has enough and different climbing to warrant a separate listing. You'll clip 3 bolts on the right side of the gully then you'll join Fat Man at bolt #2 (8 bolts total).
The crux for me was dealing with the lichen after clipping bolt #3. I'm sure it will clean up over time and may settle in at 5.9 instead of 5.10a.
Start at the base of the gully, just left of the Thin Man start. Scramble up the gully about half way then move right and up to clip the first Middle Man bolt. You'll get 2 more "new bolts" then you'll join Fat Man (at Fat Man bolt #2).
The climb is a full 180' so be sure your belayer ties in to the rope or you will get lowered off into the ether. You can rap down to the base of Fat Man with a single rope rap.
You'll need 8 draws for the route but bring a 9th so you can clip the first bolt on Thin Man. This will keep your rope out of the gully and running clean.
Raleigh giving it a go during the initial establis...
Raleigh helping work out the future bolt locations...
By Ken Klis
Jun 4, 2011
I climbed MAN IN THE MIDDLE yesterday and expected it to be much more refined.
From: Atascadero, CA
Feb 27, 2015
If you start this route by the first bolt, it is about a 110'. We toproped it off the Fat Man anchor, belaying from the start of Fat Man, with a 60m rope.
From: San Luis Obispo, California
Aug 7, 2015
Loved this climb, but the start was intimidating. Stepping onto the climb from the gully to clip the first bolt could be a very dangerous. Luckily there are a few generous foot and hand holds. The lichen make the 3rd bolt a little tricky, but connecting to Fat Man was simple. Rappeling of this route with a 60m rope will only get you to the base of Fat Man. To clean your gear you might have to swing or bring up a 2nd climber.