Type: Sport, 180 ft (55 m)
FA: Kelly Farris & John Knight
Page Views: 1,582 total · 10/month
Shared By: John Knight on Jun 2, 2011
Admins: andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is not a separate route but a new start variation to Fat Man. I believe it has enough and different climbing to warrant a separate listing. You'll clip 3 bolts on the right side of the gully then you'll join Fat Man at bolt #2 (8 bolts total).

The crux for me was dealing with the lichen after clipping bolt #3. I'm sure it will clean up over time and may settle in at 5.9 instead of 5.10a.

Location Suggest change

Start at the base of the gully, just left of the Thin Man start. Scramble up the gully about half way then move right and up to clip the first Middle Man bolt. You'll get 2 more "new bolts" then you'll join Fat Man (at Fat Man bolt #2).

The climb is a full 180' so be sure your belayer ties in to the rope or you will get lowered off into the ether. You can rap down to the base of Fat Man with a single rope rap.

Protection Suggest change

You'll need 8 draws for the route but bring a 9th so you can clip the first bolt on Thin Man. This will keep your rope out of the gully and running clean.

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