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Shadow Rock
Routes Sorted
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1st Offense T,S,TR 
Battle of the Bulge S,TR 
Desperado S 
Diamond S 
Eat Mo' Possum T 
Fat Man S,TR 
Fields of Fire S 
I Love a Mystery TR 
Inner Sanctum  T 
Lycra S 
Middle Man S 
Powerplay T,TR 
Pressure Drop S 
Shadow S,TR 
Shadow Traverse S 
Swallow T,S,TR 
Thin Man S 
Three To Get Ready S 

Middle Man 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Kelly Farris & John Knight
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 571
Submitted By: John Knight on Jun 3, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Middle Man is on the far right side of the topo (l...


This is not a separate route but a new start variation to Fat Man. I believe it has enough and different climbing to warrant a separate listing. You'll clip 3 bolts on the right side of the gully then you'll join Fat Man at bolt #2 (8 bolts total).

The crux for me was dealing with the lichen after clipping bolt #3. I'm sure it will clean up over time and may settle in at 5.9 instead of 5.10a.


Start at the base of the gully, just left of the Thin Man start. Scramble up the gully about half way then move right and up to clip the first Middle Man bolt. You'll get 2 more "new bolts" then you'll join Fat Man (at Fat Man bolt #2).

The climb is a full 180' so be sure your belayer ties in to the rope or you will get lowered off into the ether. You can rap down to the base of Fat Man with a single rope rap.


You'll need 8 draws for the route but bring a 9th so you can clip the first bolt on Thin Man. This will keep your rope out of the gully and running clean.

Photos of Middle Man Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Raleigh giving it a go during the initial establis...
Raleigh giving it a go during the initial establis...
Rock Climbing Photo: Raleigh helping work out the future bolt locations...
Raleigh helping work out the future bolt locations...

Comments on Middle Man Add Comment
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By Ken Klis
Jun 4, 2011

I climbed MAN IN THE MIDDLE yesterday and expected it to be much more refined.
By FrankPS
From: Atascadero, CA
Feb 27, 2015

If you start this route by the first bolt, it is about a 110'. We toproped it off the Fat Man anchor, belaying from the start of Fat Man, with a 60m rope.
By stbrooks
From: San Luis Obispo, California
Aug 7, 2015

Loved this climb, but the start was intimidating. Stepping onto the climb from the gully to clip the first bolt could be a very dangerous. Luckily there are a few generous foot and hand holds. The lichen make the 3rd bolt a little tricky, but connecting to Fat Man was simple. Rappeling of this route with a 60m rope will only get you to the base of Fat Man. To clean your gear you might have to swing or bring up a 2nd climber.

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