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Left Hand of Darkness - E. Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aleister Crowley (aka Brew 102) T 
Bryant Gumbel T 
Grandpa Gander T 
Granny Goose T 
Jane Pauley T 
Jon Crowley T 
Left Route T 
Middle Hand of Darkness T,TR 
Mother Goose T 
Pump Up the Volume T 
Right Route T 
Stake Your Claim T 
To Air Is Human T 
Uncle Fester T 
Whistling Sphincter TR 

Middle Hand of Darkness 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Unknown, put probably some of the usual suspects in the late 70's
Page Views: 135
Submitted By: Russ Walling on Apr 14, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: A Blitzo Photo with the Middle line drawn in. Tha...


This route is most likely some sort of old mixed aid line or TR. There are hammer marks under the roof from pin whacking and I think I remember a pin or two protecting the low crux. It climbs pretty well with thought provoking moves until the above the roof crux slaps you in the face. Rock down low is not that great, but gets better as you go.


Between Left Hand of Darkness and the Right Hand of Darkness. Really all this route does is straighten out the Right Hand of Darkness. Not sure why that thing (RHD) is crawling all over the wall with this direct route available. Scramble down to climbers right to descend.


Thin stuff down low, if you can get any, and then sm-med cams for the easy top out. The anchor takes all sorts of not that great gear from 1/2" to 4". You will need a long extendo runner to set up a good TR.

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