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A Frayed Not T 
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Middle Finger 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 270'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Paul Ross, Marea Ross, Aug 29 2006
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 548
Submitted By: USBRIT on Sep 1, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Double 60m ropes from the anchors will take you to...


Climbs the middle slab of the Mitten formation . Start from the top of the central wave.These climbs on the Mitten are short but are in a pleasant area of the slabs. Forth class about 200' up open slab to some black rock boulders.
P1)Staight up easy slab to a black rock ledge and double anchors 200'5.0
P2)Up to a left leaning crack which is followed to the summit. 75' 5.6. A spike of rock 25' below the actual top was used for belay and rappel.
Descent:- Rap the route


One can drive to the trail head of Univa canyon and the walk north for about 20 mins or park just off the main dirt road near some boulders on the left and walk direct to the easily recognized formation .


Two half inch Friends one #1 Metolius.

Photos of Middle Finger Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 1 Middle Finger
Pitch 1 Middle Finger
Routes:- A) The Mitten 5.8. B) Middle Finger 5.6. ...
BETA PHOTO: Routes:- A) The Mitten 5.8. B) Middle Finger 5.6. ...
Pitch 2 Middle Finger
Pitch 2 Middle Finger
View of the book cliffs from the middle finger.
View of the book cliffs from the middle finger.

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By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Nov 26, 2006
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

Just for clarification, the climb is more than 270 feet long. My partner and I simul-climbed for about 450 feet to the two bolt anchor with the red webbing (third class-5.2). Then, I finished the last 75 feet to the "spike" (5.6 PG13). My partner was spooked by the spike (a rather pathetic-looking feature), so we slung a short but stout pillar above for our descent. The last rappel only reaches the stacked black rocks, so you have to downclimb/walk the last 300 feet or so.
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