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Middle finger pain
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Apr 30, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: high e
Ive never had any tendon or pulley problems...however recently Ive noticed that my middle finger is super sore along the top and bottom. I dont feel any loss of strength, however i do have some discomfort while applying downward pressure with it, no pain pushing up. Not much if any discomfort while not using the finger. No throbbing, no dull pain, nothing. Honestly it feels like its bruised or i smashed it with a hammer. I understand no one can diagnose via the internet, im just wondering if those who have had finger injuries could let me know if this sounds familiar? cms829
From NJ
Joined Aug 16, 2011
89 points
Apr 30, 2012
Have you been driving a lot lately? You need to clearly calm down your middle finger usage, and just roll down the window and yell instead. Jeff Chrisler
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jun 22, 2009
163 points
Apr 30, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: high e
HAHAHA....I thought you were being serious and attributing the injury to excessive driving. LOL. cms829
From NJ
Joined Aug 16, 2011
89 points
Apr 30, 2012
Ha!

There are a ton of forum threads on finger issues. I'd check back to those and check out what Dave MacLeod had to say about pulley issues. Not to say that you have that, but it is a distinct possibility...

onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.c...
Jeff Chrisler
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jun 22, 2009
163 points
May 3, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: A cold one after a trail day at the Red.
Have you tried daily ice and hot water baths with it. Get a bowl of ice water and just stand by the sink. soak it for about 30 seconds, then run warm water over it for about 20 seconds, the back and forth 4 or 5 times. Tell me in a week how much better it is. Eric Carlos
From Slade, KY
Joined Aug 30, 2008
87 points
May 3, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: slopey
I do a slightly different version than above. Get a pitcher of ice water (LOTS OF ICE) and hold the affected hand in it for 7-10 minutes - deal with the needles - and then fill up the pitcher with warm water in the sink and submerge your hand. Turn up the faucet to the pretty damn hot setting and allow the water to gradually increase in temperature until nearly unbearable, again, do this for 7-10 minutes. Jeremy Hand
Joined Feb 24, 2012
109 points
May 3, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Colonel Mustard
If a guy with the last name "Hand" is answering your finger question, you know you're in... Ah, shoot me. Colonel Mustard
From Sacramento, CA
Joined Sep 13, 2005
1,436 points
May 3, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Me, of course
Rock Climbing Photo: me and bryce
me and bryce


Just exercise it enough.
Evan S
From Erie, CO
Joined Dec 30, 2007
550 points
May 3, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: high e
Is the hot and cold immersion supposed to increase blood flow to expedite healing? OR does is have something to do specifically with the tendons? cms829
From NJ
Joined Aug 16, 2011
89 points
May 3, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Awesomeness!
I have the same thing going on. Read this:

rockandice.com/articles/how-to...

The cold/hot immersion works well. Immobilizing it, especially at night has worked wonders for me too.
Chris Horton
From Tucson AZ
Joined Jul 3, 2010
260 points
May 3, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Me, of course
In all reality, you tore a pulley. Hot/cold hydrotherapy and immobilization with a ring splint will have you healed in 6-10 weeks. It sucks, but your fingers don't heal that fast.

scriphessco.com/products/oval-...
Evan S
From Erie, CO
Joined Dec 30, 2007
550 points
May 5, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: North face of long's.
I've been climbing for about ten years now and while I've had tendon problems before, I just injured a pulley for the first time in my middle finger on the right hand. I immediately stopped climbing for three weeks and in the meantime bought some Therapy Putty:

isokineticsinc.com/category/th...

Because mine seemed to be a relatively light injury, I went with the firmest putty. I will squeeze the putty, focusing on the middle finger for 4-5 minutes at a time and follow it up with massaging on the bottom and sides of the finger.

It worked! After about 3-4 weeks, the pain has gone away and I can climb on it again. If you try climbing through it, it will escalate the injury and you could be looking at full bow-stringing and not having full-strength for a year.

Good luck, and pick up some therapy putty. It's good stuff.
BWIce
From Carlisle, PA
Joined Oct 20, 2010
70 points


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