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Middle finger pain
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By cms829
Apr 30, 2012
high e
Ive never had any tendon or pulley problems...however recently Ive noticed that my middle finger is super sore along the top and bottom. I dont feel any loss of strength, however i do have some discomfort while applying downward pressure with it, no pain pushing up. Not much if any discomfort while not using the finger. No throbbing, no dull pain, nothing. Honestly it feels like its bruised or i smashed it with a hammer. I understand no one can diagnose via the internet, im just wondering if those who have had finger injuries could let me know if this sounds familiar?

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By Jeff Chrisler
From Boulder, CO
Apr 30, 2012
Have you been driving a lot lately? You need to clearly calm down your middle finger usage, and just roll down the window and yell instead.

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By cms829
Apr 30, 2012
high e
HAHAHA....I thought you were being serious and attributing the injury to excessive driving. LOL.

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By Jeff Chrisler
From Boulder, CO
Apr 30, 2012
Ha!

There are a ton of forum threads on finger issues. I'd check back to those and check out what Dave MacLeod had to say about pulley issues. Not to say that you have that, but it is a distinct possibility...

onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.c...

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By Eric Carlos
From Boulder, CO
May 3, 2012
Always wear a helmet.  I had it with me but chose ...
Have you tried daily ice and hot water baths with it. Get a bowl of ice water and just stand by the sink. soak it for about 30 seconds, then run warm water over it for about 20 seconds, the back and forth 4 or 5 times. Tell me in a week how much better it is.

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By Jeremy Hand
May 3, 2012
slopey
I do a slightly different version than above. Get a pitcher of ice water (LOTS OF ICE) and hold the affected hand in it for 7-10 minutes - deal with the needles - and then fill up the pitcher with warm water in the sink and submerge your hand. Turn up the faucet to the pretty damn hot setting and allow the water to gradually increase in temperature until nearly unbearable, again, do this for 7-10 minutes.

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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
May 3, 2012
Colonel Mustard
If a guy with the last name "Hand" is answering your finger question, you know you're in... Ah, shoot me.

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By Evan S
From Erie, CO
May 3, 2012
Me, of course
me and bryce
me and bryce


Just exercise it enough.

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By cms829
May 3, 2012
high e
Is the hot and cold immersion supposed to increase blood flow to expedite healing? OR does is have something to do specifically with the tendons?

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By Chris Horton
From Tucson AZ
May 3, 2012
Awesomeness!
I have the same thing going on. Read this:

rockandice.com/articles/how-to...

The cold/hot immersion works well. Immobilizing it, especially at night has worked wonders for me too.

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By Evan S
From Erie, CO
May 3, 2012
Me, of course
In all reality, you tore a pulley. Hot/cold hydrotherapy and immobilization with a ring splint will have you healed in 6-10 weeks. It sucks, but your fingers don't heal that fast.

scriphessco.com/products/oval-...

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By BWIce
From Carlisle, PA
May 5, 2012
North face of long's.
I've been climbing for about ten years now and while I've had tendon problems before, I just injured a pulley for the first time in my middle finger on the right hand. I immediately stopped climbing for three weeks and in the meantime bought some Therapy Putty:

isokineticsinc.com/category/th...

Because mine seemed to be a relatively light injury, I went with the firmest putty. I will squeeze the putty, focusing on the middle finger for 4-5 minutes at a time and follow it up with massaging on the bottom and sides of the finger.

It worked! After about 3-4 weeks, the pain has gone away and I can climb on it again. If you try climbing through it, it will escalate the injury and you could be looking at full bow-stringing and not having full-strength for a year.

Good luck, and pick up some therapy putty. It's good stuff.

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