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Middle East Bouldering 
Tool Buttress, The 

Middle East 


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Elevation: 1,850'
Lat, Long: 36.0071, -93.2875 Map
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Administrator: Tom Erickson
Submitted By: CJ Gates on Jul 18, 2008

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Rhoads in AR.

Description 

You won't find many people climbing in this part of the Canyon. If you do they are probably bouldering since there are only about 4 roped routes here. Tool Buttress offers 3 climbs starting around .11b. Lots of boulders some are very difficult or still projects.


Getting There 

There are numerous ways of getting here. The best way would be taking the trail that leads to the Roman Wall/Magoo Rock. From the East Campground take the logging road north to the top. The boulders and Tool Buttress will be on your right. There are lots of boulders and lots of underbrush so it may be best to ask the guys at the Trading Post


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle East:
Palming the Egg   V2     Boulder, 12 feet   Middle East Bouldering
Jeff's Prow   V9-     Boulder, 10 feet   Middle East Bouldering
Flash Gordon   V10     Boulder, 15 feet   Middle East Bouldering
Rosie's Cantina   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   The Tool Buttress
The Poo-Choo Train   5.11b     Sport, 65 feet   The Tool Buttress
Don't Be A Tool   5.12a     Sport, 65 feet   The Tool Buttress
Browse More Classics in Middle East

Featured Route For Middle East
Rhoads in AR.

The Poo-Choo Train 5.11b  AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : ... : The Tool Buttress
From the Fixed Pin guide book:A brilliant pitch that's just slightly easier than "Don't be a Tool". Climb through a series of big holds and small ledges to the bulging crux. Engineer a successful sequence and ride over sustained ground to the ledge. Take a much need break and then hop back on board for one more challenging move at the roof....[more]   Browse More Classics in AR