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DescriptionYou won't find many people climbing in this part of the Canyon. If you do they are probably bouldering since there are only about 4 roped routes here. Tool Buttress offers 3 climbs starting around .11b. Lots of boulders some are very difficult or still projects. Getting ThereThere are numerous ways of getting here. The best way would be taking the trail that leads to the Roman Wall/Magoo Rock. From the East Campground take the logging road north to the top. The boulders and Tool Buttress will be on your right. There are lots of boulders and lots of underbrush so it may be best to ask the guys at the Trading Post The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle East:
Palming the Egg V2 Boulder, 12 feet Middle East Bouldering
Jeff's Prow V9- Boulder, 10 feet Middle East Bouldering
Flash Gordon V10 Boulder, 15 feet Middle East Bouldering
Rosie's Cantina 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet The Tool Buttress
The Poo-Choo Train 5.11b Sport, 65 feet The Tool Buttress
Don't Be A Tool 5.12a Sport, 65 feet The Tool Buttress
Featured Route For Middle East
The Poo-Choo Train 5.11b AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : ... : The Tool Buttress
From the Fixed Pin guide book:A brilliant pitch that's just slightly easier than "Don't be a Tool". Climb through a series of big holds and small ledges to the bulging crux. Engineer a successful sequence and ride over sustained ground to the ledge. Take a much need break and then hop back on board for one more challenging move at the roof....[more] Browse More Classics in AR |