Middle Earth 5.9
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Climber on the steep upper headwall of "Middle Ear...
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Description "Middle Earth" begins downhill (left) of "Agua Negro" at the narrowest portion of The Canyon. Start climbing just right of and below a huge coarse grained block or inclusion. Two bolts lead past the inclusion to a lower angled apron. Continue up as the wall steepens to a large depression with a set of double bolts on the left. Move left from the depression around the left side of a very large block to a chain anchor with two bolts. Continue up the steep upper headwall on pockets and knobs past 5 more bolts. While it is possible to link the climb as one long pitch it maybe necessary to use long runners down low or back clean to reduce rope drag.
While this route is fairly new, no information is available regarding the details of the FA or its original name.
Location This route is on the east wall of The Canyon and originates at the narrowest portion of The Canyon, 40 feet left (north) of "Aqua Negro."
Protection P1 - 9 bolts & 2-bolt anchor with chain, P2 - 5 bolts, shares an anchor with "Tethys," 3 bolts with chains.
A climber rappelling down the line of "Middle Eart...
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By steple
Jul 26, 2011
| This route is listed as trad, but according to the description it's a sport climb. |
By Benjamin Chapman
From: CA
Sep 9, 2011
| The bolts are more widely spaced than most "sport" routes and might be considered run out. "Picante" (5.12) at Suicide Rock is listed as "trad" by Darrell Hensel, yet it is a sporty face, protected by 5 bolts. In fact, most of the face routes at Suicide Rock and Joshua Tree are classified as trad. If you're expecting closely spaced bolts at Texas Canyon you may be in over your head. All you need is draws. |
By Guy Keesee
Nov 25, 2011
| ""While this route is fairly new, no information is available regarding the details of the FA or its original name.
So Gentle Ben, How nice of you to rate it and name it for all of US. Thank You for your service. |
By Benjamin Chapman
From: CA
Nov 28, 2011
| Always eager to help. Certainly, attaching a name and a rating to the route helps others identify it and might save someone from an unfortunate accident or epic. Withholding the name and rating benefits few and may put inexperienced climbers in jeopardy. As Spider Savage has indicated throughout this site, if you have some insight regarding the name, rating, FA party, date, etc. that you or anyone else would like to share...please do. |
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