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Middle Earth

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
42 T,TR 
A Flake Called Lee T,TR 
Bloodguard T,TR 
Butterfingers T,TR 
Butterfingers Right T,TR 
Cave Route, The T 
Cording T,TR 
For Short People Only T,TR 
Go Ballistic T,TR 
I Am a Cam TR 
In Your Head T 
Rhythm Roof TR 
Seven Wishes T,TR 
White Quartz Wielder T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Middle Earth Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.26161, -77.3946 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,150
Administrators: Frances Fierst, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Frank T on Mar 28, 2009
Forecast:
Overnight

72°
Sunday

92° | 75°
Monday

94° | 75°
Tuesday

92° | 74°
Wednesday

92° | 74°
Thursday

92° | 73°
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  • Seasonal Bird Nesting Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    From the green trail this is the first wall you come to on your right. at 120 feet of broken rock cliff that one can find climbs upwards of 50 feet (most average 30 to 40 though). This area is prone to the ravens closure, as they like to nest on Butterfingers.

    Getting There 

    Once at the top parking lot, walk down to the trail head (near the building) for the green trail, follow this up a few hundred yards and look off into the woods to your right. You can't miss it.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 4.5 miles from here

    14 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',5],['5.7',2],['5.8',3],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Middle Earth

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Middle Earth:
    The Cave Route   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 2 pitches, 55'   
    For Short People Only   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
    A Flake Called Lee   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Seven Wishes   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
    In Your Head   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
    White Quartz Wielder   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 39'   
    Butterfingers   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 30'   
    Bloodguard   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 37'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Middle Earth

    Featured Route For Middle Earth
    Rock Climbing Photo: Myself and Michael Whitley on Seven Wishes

    Seven Wishes 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  MD : Sugarloaf Mountain : Middle Earth
    climb up and over the overhang/roof in the chimney, and find your self on a large ledge (you can also bypass the overhang by working your way around to the far left then moving back above it). follow the notch and crack to the right of "rhythm roof". try not to go to far right, as it's an easy way to avoid the crux. on a nice weekend be prepared to stand in line to climb this gem. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in MD

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