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 ADVANCED
Middle Earth
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bobbin' for Hobbits S 
Breeze, The S 
Bump, The S 
Centennial S 
Delirious S 
Earth Angel S 
Elfin Warrior S 
Fireball S 
Grand Opening S 
Hobbitual Offender S 
Infectious S 
Irresistable S 
Just a Fantasy T 
Middle Earth S 
Planet Eater, The S 
Premonition S 
Pull Me Up S 
Red Hot S 
S'Blended S 
Silmarillion S 
War Of The Worlds S 
You Betchy It's Sketchy S 

Middle Earth 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 155'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Scott Ayers, Mark Colby, Jack Janesky, '92
Page Views: 940
Submitted By: Scott Tucker on Aug 6, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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High on middll earth

Description 

Three crux sections interspersed with easier climbing makes this interesting but not too sustained. This end of the wall is very slabby and thin, especially compared to the overhanging routes on the left end.

Slabby start is easier for taller folks. Runout on easier but not super easy ground, so be careful. Next crux is at a bulgy corner followed by easier moves to thin section at top. Fun climb. Expect to use your feet.

There is a second pitch to Simarillion to the right which looks accessible from Middle Earth.

Location 

Two raps required to descend. Rap to anchors on You Betchy It's Sketchy about halfway to ground then rap again.

At the right end of the wall, before turning the corner, there are several routes not easily determined. Best to find Earth Angel (5.9) around the corner in front of the tree and count left. Middle Earth starts up a slab to a big flake and there is a good picture of the flake in Squeezing the Lemmon.

Protection 

Bolts & bolt anchors.


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By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 21, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

15-20' runout between last bolt and anchors. On easier but not trivial section.
By Chris Craig
Sep 5, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I'm not brave, but the runout is really easy.
By Cody M
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 24, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Awesome long long route. Multiple cruxes, but I thought there were plenty of bolts where you want them. Fun movement that's not immediately obvious - like one big puzzle.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 19, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Very nice route, bolts are perfect, the "run-outs" are on easier terrain and typical for a well bolted slab type climb so are not scary.