Middle Earth 

The first pitch of this climb is superb and takes good gear. Good pitch for the new 5.5 leader.

P2 is easy 5th class, but still fun.

P3 is tricky, with a vague book description, potential ledge falls, and a harder than rated crux. I would not put a new 5.5ish leader on the last pitch.

A 60M rope is needed to rap from the large tree atop P1 or to TR this pitch.

Great climb, I linked P1 and P2 together.

P3 was rated 5.7 up until the Grey Dick came out; and even at 5.7, it wasn't a gimme. That re-grading is the one I most strongly disagree with.

It's not easy to get *good* pro at the crux, because of the direction of rope pull, and the pumpy stance; and you're looking at hitting the ledge if you fall on bad pro. So I agree with Tim - I would not, not, not put a 5.5 leader on this pitch.

Repositioning the belay at the GT ledge, to just below the pitch, is a good idea.

Finally got to lead the pitch 3. What a great climb! I agree, the roof is a bit stiff for a 5.5, especially for a shortie like me. The roof protects well, you can even stick a purple C4 in the crack just right under the roof. The reason I gave it PG13 is that once you pass the roof, the pro is very sparse, the climbing is pretty easy though.

In May 2010, my partner and I moved the fixed rappel at the GT ledge from the leaning-over, half-eroded tree to the beefy pine 15' left.

P3's roof is 5.7, I don't care what the current guide says. That said, great route and fun pitch. Well protected IMO.

P1 I found to be well-protected since I had a little Mastercam #0 to stick in a flary vertical crack as my second piece off the ground.
Above that my "normal" rack worked fine, no need for anything larger than a #2 Camalot.

P1 was pretty sustained with thoughtful face/slab moves near the rating grade. Perhaps not a good choice as an early Lead for someone making the transition from indoor climbing, because some of the protection stances required standing on slopy or small footholds - (though could be a good learning pitch for Followers making the transition from indoors).

Hardest "5.5" crux on the third pitch I have ever climbed. 5.8 is a bit more like it.

If you do the crux on p3 the absolute easiest way I'd still say it's hard 5.6. First pitch is phenomenal... probably the best/most sustained pitch of 5.5/5.6 in the Gunks with some great crack climbing to boot!

I approached the P3 overhang from the left side by the Bombs Away P3 start this time. Felt easier, 5.5 or so, and was a bit easier to place pro higher up while holding huge jugs, though still not the most comfortable stance.