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Middle Earth

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bobbin' for Hobbits S 
Breeze, The S 
Bump, The S 
Centennial S 
Delirious S 
Earth Angel S 
Elfin Warrior S 
Fireball S 
Grand Opening S 
Hobbit In A Blender S 
Hobbitual Offender S 
Infectious S 
Irresistable S 
Just a Fantasy T 
Middle Earth S 
Planet Eater, The S 
Premonition S 
Pull Me Up S 
Red Hot S 
S'Blended S 
Silmarillion S 
War Of The Worlds S 
You Betchy It's Sketchy S 

Middle Earth Rock Climbing 

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Location: 32.3804, -110.70245 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,614
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: WSnyder on Apr 7, 2006
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Spring and Fall. Summer is OK if you climb the far left side in the alcove until 2-3 pm. Mostly sport with a few gear routes. Routes from 5.8 through 5.12+. The alcove holds several overhanging sport routes a few of which are worth the visit. The rest of the crag has longer, less than vertical to vertical climbing and some of these are very good if you prefer these types of routes.

Getting There 

Follow EFR's description in the guidebook but the pullout is a little further up the road and on the left after the new road construction. The trail starts at the upper end of this new pullout.

Climbing Season

For the 5 - Windy Ridge area.

Weather station 2.6 miles from here

23 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Middle Earth

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Middle Earth:
Middle Earth   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 155'   
Silmarillion   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 150'   
Pull Me Up   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
Hobbitual Offender   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
The Planet Eater   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 2 pitches, 160'   
The Breeze   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 40'   
Delirious   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   
Premonition   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
War Of The Worlds   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 2 pitches, 180'   
Irresistable   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 70'   
The Bump   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Infectious   5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Sport   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Middle Earth

Featured Route For Middle Earth
Rock Climbing Photo: Premonition

Premonition 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Middle Earth
Bring your bag of tricks and smearing shoes for this one cause every ten feet the style changes but the footholds stay the same. Fun stemming in an alcove leads to an undercling traverse, followed by a few moves of desperate lay-backing, then a few hard crimpy moves leads to a bit o'jug hauling and a tricky roof encounter. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Photos of Middle Earth Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Aleix fishing for feet on War of the Worlds, 5.12 ...
Aleix fishing for feet on War of the Worlds, 5.12 ...
Rock Climbing Photo: From the trail as it turns back to the south to re...
BETA PHOTO: From the trail as it turns back to the south to re...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jesse works the laybacks at the start of War of th...
Jesse works the laybacks at the start of War of th...

Comments on Middle Earth Add Comment
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By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
May 14, 2007
There are several(at least 2) bolts missing hangers left of "The Breeze". I think the route left of the breeze has all of its hard ware but the two left of that are missing some stuff. Maybe more, I am not sure.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Sep 12, 2007
Would it be faster to approach Middle Earth via the Lizard Rock area?
By jbak
Sep 12, 2007
Christian....the short answer is no...not faster. But it's not that much longer either.
By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 19, 2010
The Hendrixson Bailing Challenge: 3 Routes in 1 Day.

There was a bit of confusion as new routes have been added since SLII was published. "Bobbin For Hobbits" and "Elfin Warrior" precede "Infectious", the "Open Project" in the guidebook. Hence "Infectious" is not "Delirious"; furthermore, neither "The Gift" nor "The Bump" are "The Breeze".

"The Gift" is still missing at least the second bolt. There appeared to be chalk on the route, however, so maybe it is unnecessary.

The trail, while still easily identifiable, could use a little maintenance.
By JSchultz
May 15, 2011
Adam Block is a bad@#&! Yesterday he sent War of the Worlds and The Bump. The Bump went 2nd go after not getting on it for several years.
Not bad for a day of climbing. Last time I take him to work my project...
Good job Adam!
By WAGbag
From: Denver, CO
Apr 18, 2012
The "Getting there" section of most areas in AZ could use a little help. For middle earth, try this:
After mp15 you will pass Hoodoo Vista Point on your right, the very next pullout (on your left) is for Middle Earth and The Helmet (just below 2 blocky towers). Start at the upper end of the pullout and walk up the gully. Just before you reach the crest cairns will either continue straight up (Helmet) or go right (middle earth). Follow right and sidehill (uphill to right) above a large slab area then circle back around left to arrive at the climber's left side of the crag.

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