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Middle Earth

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bobbin' for Hobbits S 
Breeze, The S 
Bump, The S 
Centennial S 
Delirious S 
Earth Angel S 
Elfin Warrior S 
Fireball S 
Grand Opening S 
Hobbit In A Blender S 
Hobbitual Offender S 
Infectious S 
Irresistible S 
Just a Fantasy T 
Middle Earth S 
Planet Eater, The S 
Premonition S 
Pull Me Up S 
Red Hot S 
S'Blended S 
Silmarillion S 
War Of The Worlds S 
You Betchy It's Sketchy S 

Middle Earth Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 32.3804, -110.70245 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,071
Administrators: Greg Opland, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Hendrixson on Apr 7, 2006
Forecast:
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Description 

Middle Earth is a stellar crag consisting of mostly sport routes with grades from 5.9 to 5.13. The left side of the crag consists of bouldery, overhung lines starting at 5.11. This section of the crag stays shaded until 3pm. The middle of the crag features a trilogy of classic, vertical, friction routes: War Of The Worlds, The Planet Eater, and Premonition. The right side is marked by long less-than-vertical pitches and sees sun earlier, at perhaps 11am. Conditions are best during the spring and fall months; however, it is possible to climb the left hand routes during the summer. Some routes have high quality second and third pitches; some require a second rope to descend. There is cell phone reception (Verizon, April 2016).

Getting There 

Pass Hoodoo Vista Point on your right at mile post 15. Park at the very next pullout on the downhill (left) side of the road. This parking lot is next to a natural rock bridge and is used to access both Middle Earth and The Helmet. From the north or upper end of the pullout, hike up a gully. Prior to the crest the trail forks. Take the right branch for Middle Earth. Continue right along the ridge line before circling back and downhill to the left. The hike takes 15-20 minutes and accesses the crag from the left.

Rock Climbing Photo: Parking For Middle Earth & The Helmet
Parking For Middle Earth & The Helmet

Climbing Season

For the 5 - Windy Ridge area.

Weather station 2.6 miles from here

23 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',5],['5.11',7],['5.12',9],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Middle Earth

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Middle Earth:
Silmarillion   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 150'   
Middle Earth   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 155'   
Pull Me Up   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
The Planet Eater   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 2 pitches, 160'   
Hobbitual Offender   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
The Breeze   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 40'   
Delirious   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   
Premonition   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Irresistible   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 70'   
War Of The Worlds   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 2 pitches, 180'   
The Bump   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Infectious   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Middle Earth

Featured Route For Middle Earth
Rock Climbing Photo: Marie Louka On Planet Eater

The Planet Eater 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Middle Earth
Slabby technical start to a lieback to jugs as it gets steeper. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Photos of Middle Earth Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Aleix fishing for feet on War of the Worlds, 5.12 ...
Aleix fishing for feet on War of the Worlds, 5.12 ...
Rock Climbing Photo: From the trail as it turns back to the south to re...
BETA PHOTO: From the trail as it turns back to the south to re...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jesse works the laybacks at the start of War of th...
Jesse works the laybacks at the start of War of th...

Comments on Middle Earth Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
May 14, 2007
There are several(at least 2) bolts missing hangers left of "The Breeze". I think the route left of the breeze has all of its hard ware but the two left of that are missing some stuff. Maybe more, I am not sure.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Sep 12, 2007
Would it be faster to approach Middle Earth via the Lizard Rock area?
By jbak
Sep 12, 2007
Christian....the short answer is no...not faster. But it's not that much longer either.
By JSchultz
May 15, 2011
Adam Block is a bad@#&! Yesterday he sent War of the Worlds and The Bump. The Bump went 2nd go after not getting on it for several years.
Not bad for a day of climbing. Last time I take him to work my project...
Good job Adam!
By WAGbag
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Apr 18, 2012
The "Getting there" section of most areas in AZ could use a little help. For middle earth, try this:
After mp15 you will pass Hoodoo Vista Point on your right, the very next pullout (on your left) is for Middle Earth and The Helmet (just below 2 blocky towers). Start at the upper end of the pullout and walk up the gully. Just before you reach the crest cairns will either continue straight up (Helmet) or go right (middle earth). Follow right and sidehill (uphill to right) above a large slab area then circle back around left to arrive at the climber's left side of the crag.
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 24, 2016
I updated the 'Description' and 'Getting There' sections. I also filled in the missing FA information. Let me know if changes or additions need to be made.

Additionally let me know if you would like to improve other Southern Arizona areas -- I can reassign ownership. I believe parking and trailhead information / photos are incredibly useful. I also am interested in shade and cell reception details.
By EWod
Apr 26, 2016
Perfect John! Nice work.

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