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L to R R to L Alpha
Spring and Fall. Summer is OK if you climb the far left side in the alcove until 2-3 pm. Mostly sport with a few gear routes. Routes from 5.8 through 5.12+. The alcove holds several overhanging sport routes a few of which are worth the visit. The rest of the crag has longer, less than vertical to vertical climbing and some of these are very good if you prefer these types of routes.
Follow EFR's description in the guidebook but the pullout is a little further up the road and on the left after the new road construction. The trail starts at the upper end of this new pullout.
22 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Middle Earth
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Earth:
Middle Earth 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 155'
Silmarillion 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 150'
Pull Me Up 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Hobbitual Offender 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
The Planet Eater 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport, 2 pitches, 160'
The Breeze 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 40'
Delirious 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 60'
War Of The Worlds 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Premonition 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Fireball 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Irresistable 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 70'
The Bump 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Infectious 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport
Featured Route For Middle Earth
Premonition 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Middle Earth
Bring your bag of tricks and smearing shoes for this one cause every ten feet the style changes but the footholds stay the same. Fun stemming in an alcove leads to an undercling traverse, followed by a few moves of desperate lay-backing, then a few hard crimpy moves leads to a bit o'jug hauling and a tricky roof encounter. ...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
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