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Middle Earth can be a very confusing area to visit. It is climbed in much less often than the Outlets, so expect solitude on most routes. Many routes require the better part of a rope length, requiring two ropes to rappel. Some good climbs are Hrum Hroom and Three Rings for the Elven Kings (very popular though).
Follow the signs from Hill City to Sylvan Lake (same as the Outlets). Hike around the lake heading north from the car. Walk through the Outlets until reaching the field north of Outer Outlet. From here, walk up the hill on the trail using switchbacks. At this hill crest is where Middle Earth begins. A left up another hill brings one to Hrum Hroom and Quickbeam. Most routes are located by heading down the hill from this crest and heading up gullies between rock formations.
29 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Middle Earth
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Earth:
The Outer Shadow aka Morannon 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120' TOWERS OF TEETH : EPHEL DUATH
Featured Route For Middle Earth
Waste Knot 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c SD : Custer State Park : ... : EPHEL DUATH
Your time will not be wasted when you climb this route; nor will it be wasted when you climb this route again because it was so dam fun. A steep wandering bolted route that uses a brilliant mix of large jugs and in-cut edges to provide an exhilarating experience. The route never seamed run out and was supper fun all the way to the top. My friend accidentally spelled the route like this Waist Knot ?? :) The bolt line can be challenging to spot but there are two little bushes growing ou...[more] Browse More Classics in SD