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DescriptionMiddle Earth can be a very confusing area to visit. It is climbed in much less often than the Outlets, so expect solitude on most routes. Many routes require the better part of a rope length, requiring two ropes to rappel. Some good climbs are Hrum Hroom and Three Rings for the Elven Kings (very popular though). Getting ThereFollow the signs from Hill City to Sylvan Lake (same as the Outlets). Hike around the lake heading north from the car. Walk through the Outlets until reaching the field north of Outer Outlet. From here, walk up the hill on the trail using switchbacks. At this hill crest is where Middle Earth begins. A left up another hill brings one to Hrum Hroom and Quickbeam. Most routes are located by heading down the hill from this crest and heading up gullies between rock formations. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Earth:
Quickbeam 5.5 Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Fanghorn Hills
Enting 5.5 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Fanghorn Hills
Goldstone's Riddle 5.6 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet Riddle
Hrum Hroom 5.7 Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Fanghorn Hills
Of Quartz It Goes 5.7 Sport, 1 pitch, 125 feet Far Downs
Guardian Face 5.8+ Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Ered Lithui
Bil-Bolting-Baggins 5.9- Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet Khazad Dum
Three Rings for the Elven Kings 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet Erebor
Shelob 5.10 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch Torech Ungol
Thror 5.10+ PG13 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 135 feet Near Downs
Thrain 5.10+ PG13 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 140 feet Near Downs
Goldberry Lane 5.11 Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Ered Lithui
Featured Route For Middle Earth
Goldberry Lane 5.11 SD : Custer State Park : ... : Ered Lithui
This route is right across the way from Hrum Hroom (on Fanghorn Hills). Look for a steep, crystalline, bolted face with 5 bolts in it. This line of bolts is just to the right of a detached block and to the left of a fist size crack. Climb through the face to a fixed anchor. Also, if I remember right, it might be possible to get to the top by scrambling up a back way. I am not sure on this, however....[more] Browse More Classics in SD |