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Middle Earth 


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jun 25, 2002

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Chance of a Thunderstorm
72° | 46°
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72° | 52°
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73° | 50°
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68° | 46°
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64° | 50°

BETA PHOTO: Middle Earth as seen from top of Outer Outlet.

Description 

Middle Earth can be a very confusing area to visit. It is climbed in much less often than the Outlets, so expect solitude on most routes. Many routes require the better part of a rope length, requiring two ropes to rappel. Some good climbs are Hrum Hroom and Three Rings for the Elven Kings (very popular though).

This area's theme is inspired by J.R. Tolkien's Lord of the Rings (long before the movie came out). The names come right from places and characters in these books. How appopriate too, as this area has a very magical feel to it...


Getting There 

Follow the signs from Hill City to Sylvan Lake (same as the Outlets). Hike around the lake heading north from the car. Walk through the Outlets until reaching the field north of Outer Outlet. From here, walk up the hill on the trail using switchbacks. At this hill crest is where Middle Earth begins. A left up another hill brings one to Hrum Hroom and Quickbeam. Most routes are located by heading down the hill from this crest and heading up gullies between rock formations.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Earth:
Quickbeam   5.5     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Fanghorn Hills
Enting   5.5     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Fanghorn Hills
Goldstone's Riddle   5.6     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet   Riddle
Hrum Hroom   5.7     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Fanghorn Hills
Of Quartz It Goes   5.7     Sport, 1 pitch, 125 feet   Far Downs
Guardian Face   5.8+     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Ered Lithui
Bil-Bolting-Baggins   5.9-     Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet   Khazad Dum
Three Rings for the Elven Kings   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet   Erebor
Shelob   5.10     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   Torech Ungol
Thror   5.10+ PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 135 feet   Near Downs
Thrain   5.10+ PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 140 feet   Near Downs
Goldberry Lane   5.11     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Ered Lithui
Sundogs   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Riddle
Browse More Classics in Middle Earth

Featured Route For Middle Earth
Top view of the climbing near the end of the pitch.

Goldberry Lane 5.11  SD : Custer State Park : ... : Ered Lithui
This route is right across the way from Hrum Hroom (on Fanghorn Hills). Look for a steep, crystalline, bolted face with 5 bolts in it. This line of bolts is just to the right of a detached block and to the left of a fist size crack. Climb through the face to a fixed anchor. Also, if I remember right, it might be possible to get to the top by scrambling up a back way. I am not sure on this, however....[more]   Browse More Classics in SD