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Middle Earth

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Middle Earth  


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Location: 43.8478, -103.5717 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 41,385
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jun 25, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: major formations labeled with some routes to help ...

Description 

Middle Earth can be a very confusing area to visit. It is climbed in much less often than the Outlets, so expect solitude on most routes. Many routes require the better part of a rope length, requiring two ropes to rappel. Some good climbs are Hrum Hroom and Three Rings for the Elven Kings (very popular though).

This area's theme is inspired by J.R. Tolkien's Lord of the Rings (long before the movie came out). The names come right from places and characters in these books. How appopriate too, as this area has a very magical feel to it...

Getting There 

Follow the signs from Hill City to Sylvan Lake (same as the Outlets). Hike around the lake heading north from the car. Walk through the Outlets until reaching the field north of Outer Outlet. From here, walk up the hill on the trail using switchbacks. At this hill crest is where Middle Earth begins. A left up another hill brings one to Hrum Hroom and Quickbeam. Most routes are located by heading down the hill from this crest and heading up gullies between rock formations.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.9 miles from here

32 Total Routes

['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',3],['5.8',5],['5.9',4],['5.10',7],['5.11',5],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Earth:
Enting   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Fanghorn Hills
Quickbeam   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Fanghorn Hills
Of Quartz It Goes   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 125'   Far Downs
Hrum Hroom   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Fanghorn Hills
Master of Rack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 140'   TOWERS OF TEETH : EPHEL DUATH
The Outer Shadow aka Morannon   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   TOWERS OF TEETH : EPHEL DUATH
Waste Knot    5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 130'   TOWERS OF TEETH : EPHEL DUATH
Left Wing of Smaug   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 140'   Far Downs
Fool of a Took   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Near Downs
Three Rings for the Elven Kings   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Erebor
Shelob   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   Torech Ungol
An Unexpected Journey   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   West Lies Mirkwood
Thrain   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 140'   Near Downs
Thror   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 135'   Near Downs
Knob Goblin   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   West Lies Mirkwood
The Eye of Sauron   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   East Lies Iron Hills
Ghostwriter   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   Near Downs
Goldberry Lane   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Ered Lithui
Straight Outta Mordor   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Near Downs
Right Wight   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 140'   Near Downs
Browse More Classics in Middle Earth

Featured Route For Middle Earth
Joel working it out

Ghostwriter 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  SD : Custer State Park : ... : Near Downs
Well protected cruxes down low then increasing runouts. Quite technical with hard to find holds. Possible to share the last bolt of the route to the right. This line was first envisioned by Shaffer, who put in the first two bolts....[more]   Browse More Classics in SD

Photos of Middle Earth Slideshow Add Photo
Cheyenne about to get eaten alive by The Jaws of Doom.
Cheyenne about to get eaten alive by The Jaws of D...
Middle Earth as seen from top of Outer Outlet.
BETA PHOTO: Middle Earth as seen from top of Outer Outlet.
major formations labeled
BETA PHOTO: major formations labeled
Copy of a hand drawn map of Middle Earth
BETA PHOTO: Copy of a hand drawn map of Middle Earth

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