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Willow River State Park
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Middle Cyclone 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Chris Hirsch
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 625
Submitted By: Chris Hirsch on Apr 9, 2009
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Description 

This is the latest link-up route with a new two bolt section between 'Genesis Effect' and 'Tsunami'. Climb 'Genesis' through the huge huck move then make a slightly awkward transition to the left. Pull the roof for a tricky move to join and finish 'Tsunami'. Another amazing link-up route!


Location 

Starts to the right of 'Natural Selection', finish on Tsunami.


Protection 

Bolts. Please do not toprope off of the fixed gear at the top, use your own draws for that. If the biners on the chains look worn or do not work properly, please replace them. It's good karma.



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By nicros fivten
Apr 10, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Another 4 star from Chris H (note: sarcasm does not come across over the inter web) :) haha

no, but really.. largest concentration of hard routes in Midwest?

By Chris Hirsch
From: Rapid City, SD
Apr 10, 2009

Ya haha :P

T-Falls is way over rated. And I don't mean the grades are soft (well maybe that too), I mean the place blows!

By AntVicino
Sep 21, 2010

This is one of the most direct lines at Willow. Really fun, engaging crux sequence to link into Tsunami. Hard to read, but not so bad once you figure out what you are doing.

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Oct 10, 2010

i agree with anthony. like many routes at willow, middle cyclone feels much, much harder on the first go than on the second or third. once you have the beta, just go for it! you'll probably surprise yourself with a send.

also, take a couple longer draws for up top: one for the crux bolt, one for the next bolt, which is actually a bolt on tsunami. using long draws on these two bolts minimizes rope drag.

By nicros fivten
Nov 3, 2010
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

It is funny how times change.

Out of all the link ups this one is by far the best, a amazing rock climb. Many knee bars can be used so I am unsure of the grade..

By Joe O'Shea
Nov 4, 2010

nicros fivten did this in a headlamp last night

By nicros fivten
Nov 4, 2010
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Actually I cleaned it on top rope until the break... I should head out there more ofter for the night sesh!!!

By AntVicino
Nov 5, 2010

So glad to see Nic has come around on this line. Bout time, I say! This line is so good.

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Nov 6, 2010

joe, please don't prop up nic's ego. he's got that more than covered himself. :)