Tempting the Guillotine
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|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
Interesting movement utilizing edges, laybacks, hand jams, and rattly fingerlocks. Bring a red c4 and a yellow tcu - the placements will be obvious (and necessary).
This route is listed as "unknown" 5.12b in the Moab area guide. Definitely worth doing! Will clean up with some traffic, there was 0 chalk and a fair amount of sand when I got on it.
Left of Pinhead and right of Potash is a mini-corner in jet black rock. Mostly bolted with bolted anchors.
4 Bolts, #1 C4, yellow TCU, bolted anchors.
By Chris Baird
Feb 20, 2016
I did the FA. We called it "Tempting the Guillotine" because of the big loose guillotine shaped feature you have to pull and stand on. I wasn't the first to free it. Don't know who got the FFA.