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Middle Cathedral Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bircheff-Williams T 
Border Country T 
Bottom Feeder T 
Cat Dancing T 
Central Pillar of Frenzy T 
Desperate for Doughnuts T 
Direct North Buttress (DNB) T 
East Buttress T 
Ennui T 
Father Time T 
Flakes, The T 
Freewheelin' T 
Ho Chi Minh Trail T 
Home Run T 
Kor-Beck T 
North Buttress T 
Paradise Lost T 
Pee Pee Pillar T 
Quicksilver T 
Rainbow bridge S 
Ramer S 
Spank Your Monkey T 
Stoner's Highway T 
Stupid Pet Tricks T 
Tears of Joy T 
Unsorted Routes:

Middle Cathedral Rock  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,000'
Location: 37.7165, -119.6363 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 154,436
Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 15, 2006
Forecast:
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Description 

Anywhere else in the world, a rock formation the size and quality of Middle Cathedral Rock would be a full-on climbing area in it's own right. It has the unfortunate problem of residing right across the road from THE ROCK (El Capitan), however. Still, Middle Cathedral has some excellent, long free routes on it that are well worth checking out. The most popular route on MCR is probably The East Buttress (5.9 A0 or 10c), included in the 50 Classic Climbs of North America. The next most trafficed route is probably Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9), a nice crack line to the right of the East Butt (most parties climb five pitches and then rappel).

Warning: Some rockfall has occurred on MCR in the area of the Direct North Buttress (DNB) route and in the descent gully. Ask around for the latest scoop and watch your head!

Getting There 

Middle Cathedral Rock is the (surprise!) middle of the three Cathedral Rocks, found just south across the valley from El Capitan.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.6 miles from here

25 Total Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',3],['5.10',15],['5.11',3],['5.12',1],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Cathedral Rock:
Kor-Beck   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   
Central Pillar of Frenzy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches   
Quicksilver   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, 4 pitches, 600'   
Pee Pee Pillar   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 95'   
North Buttress   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 18 pitches, 2000'   
Direct North Buttress (DNB)   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 17 pitches, 1700'   
Ramer   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 140'   
East Buttress   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 11 pitches, 1100'   
Ho Chi Minh Trail   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 19 pitches, 2000'   
Stoner's Highway   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R     Trad, 10 pitches, 1000'   
Bircheff-Williams   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   
Border Country   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R     Trad, 12 pitches, 1800'   
Browse More Classics in Middle Cathedral Rock

Featured Route For Middle Cathedral Rock
Pitch 3, the sun on our heels.

Quicksilver 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Middle Cathedral Rock
This is an excellent and bold face climb up the center of the North Face Apron. I've only done a couple other 5.9R climbs in the Valley like Marginal and Goodrich Right, but Quicksilver is considerably harder and more serious than either of those. But if you are very solid at the grade this is a route well worth doing. It's also the most moderate route up the NF Apron, with all the other multipitch routes being 5.10-5.11 and with equally frightening runouts. Most of the bolts on the climb are bo...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Middle Cathedral Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Morning fog, Middle and Lower Cathedral Rock.
Morning fog, Middle and Lower Cathedral Rock.
The view of the Captain from high on the Central Pillar of Frenzy, Middle Cathedral Rock.
The view of the Captain from high on the Central P...
Middle Cathedral
Middle Cathedral
Cathedral Rocks. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: Cathedral Rocks.
Photo by Blitzo.
John Bachar bouldering at the base of Middle Cathedral Rock, early 1980s. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
John Bachar bouldering at the base of Middle Cathe...
A couple relaxing in ElCap meadow with Middle Cathedral in the background...
A couple relaxing in ElCap meadow with Middle Cath...
Middle Cathedral from a thousand feet up El Cap
Middle Cathedral from a thousand feet up El Cap
Some nice looking rock
Some nice looking rock
Cathedral Rocks
Cathedral Rocks

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