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Middle Cathedral Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bircheff-Williams 
Border Country 
Bottom Feeder 
Cat Dancing 
Central Pillar of Frenzy 
Desperate for Doughnuts 
Direct North Buttress (DNB) 
East Buttress 
Ennui 
Flakes, The 
Freewheelin' 
Ho Chi Minh Trail 
Home Run 
Kor-Beck 
North Buttress 
Paradise Lost 
Pee Pee Pillar 
Quicksilver 
Rainbow bridge 
Ramer 
Spank Your Monkey 
Stoner's Highway 
Stupid Pet Tricks 
Tears of Joy 
Unsorted Routes:

Middle Cathedral Rock 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,000'
Location: 37.7165, -119.6363 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 133,771
Administrators: M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 15, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Middle Catherdral Rock
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Description 

Anywhere else in the world, a rock formation the size and quality of Middle Cathedral Rock would be a full-on climbing area in it's own right. It has the unfortunate problem of residing right across the road from THE ROCK (El Capitan), however. Still, Middle Cathedral has some excellent, long free routes on it that are well worth checking out. The most popular route on MCR is probably The East Buttress (5.9 A0 or 10c), included in the 50 Classic Climbs of North America. The next most trafficed route is probably Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9), a nice crack line to the right of the East Butt (most parties climb five pitches and then rappel).

Warning: Some rockfall has occurred on MCR in the area of the Direct North Buttress (DNB) route and in the descent gully. Ask around for the latest scoop and watch your head!


Getting There 

Middle Cathedral Rock is the (surprise!) middle of the three Cathedral Rocks, found just south across the valley from El Capitan.


24 Total Routes


['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',3],['5.10',15],['5.11',3],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Cathedral Rock:
Kor-Beck   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   
Central Pillar of Frenzy   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches   
Quicksilver   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R     Trad, 4 pitches, 600'   
Pee Pee Pillar   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 95'   
North Buttress   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 18 pitches, 2000'   
Direct North Buttress (DNB)   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 17 pitches, 1700'   
Ramer   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 140'   
East Buttress   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 11 pitches, 1100'   
Ho Chi Minh Trail   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 19 pitches, 2000'   
Stoner's Highway   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b R     Trad, 10 pitches, 1000'   
Bircheff-Williams   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   
Border Country   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b R     Trad, 12 pitches, 1800'   
Browse More Classics in Middle Cathedral Rock

Featured Route For Middle Cathedral Rock
An unknown climber finishing up the first pitch.

Bircheff-Williams 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c  CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Middle Cathedral Rock
This is a five pitch line left of Central Pillar of Frenzy. I have only tried the first pitch, which can be toproped after descending the rappels for Central Pillar. The first pitch is thin climbing up a clean dihedral, leading to a short section of off-width that is easier than it may look. The crux is obvious as the finger crack peters out, and you have to negotiate 20 feet of extremely strenuous stemming on glassy feet. Consider the use of the arete out right if you are tall. There are two ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

News and Events For Middle Cathedral Rock
Photos of Middle Cathedral Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Morning fog, Middle and Lower Cathedral Rock.
Morning fog, Middle and Lower Cathedral Rock.
The view of the Captain from high on the Central Pillar of Frenzy, Middle Cathedral Rock.
The view of the Captain from high on the Central P...
Middle Cathedral
Middle Cathedral
Cathedral Rocks. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: Cathedral Rocks.
Photo by Blitzo.
John Bachar bouldering at the base of Middle Cathedral Rock, early 1980s. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
John Bachar bouldering at the base of Middle Cathe...
A couple relaxing in ElCap meadow with Middle Cathedral in the background...
A couple relaxing in ElCap meadow with Middle Cath...
Middle Cathedral from a thousand feet up El Cap
Middle Cathedral from a thousand feet up El Cap
Some nice looking rock
Some nice looking rock
Cathedral Rocks
Cathedral Rocks
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