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Middle Cathedral Question



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By Killing In The Name Of
Mar 26, 2012
I'll take "things I'd give my left arm to bang" for $400, Alex

First time valley trip coming soon, looking for some entertaining routes, saw Smith/Crawford .11d and Crazy .11d on Middle and both look interesting.

Anyone climb these or have any suggestions on where to find info? I know there are a lot more moderate routes around, just curious about these, information seems scarce.


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By Killing In The Name Of
Mar 26, 2012
I'll take "things I'd give my left arm to bang" for $400, Alex

Bump to add that I don't mind calling/emailing if someone has a reference worth tracking down. -K


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By J. Albers
From Colorado
Mar 26, 2012
Bucky

PM'ed.


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By Chad_N
From SEKI, Ca
Mar 27, 2012
Bariloche, Argentina. <br />Mount Tronador

Don Reid's Falcon Guide 'Yosemite Free Climbs' has topos and rack reccomendations for both those routes. Pages 298, 299. I just bought a copy for $15 off Amazon.com a while back.

+ PM sent.


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By michael rowell
Mar 27, 2012
sail away, joshua tree

would it be a good time to hit up central pillar of frenzy or is there too much snow at the base?? would any pitches be wet if i climbed it in a week and a half?


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By wade morris
Mar 27, 2012
...

cam from awh meadows
cam from awh meadows
Submitted By: wade morris on Mar 27, 2012



doesnt look like theres much snow in the valley for this time of year


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By Colin Simon
From Boulder, CO
Mar 27, 2012
Just below Thunderbolt Peak

michael rowell wrote:
would it be a good time to hit up central pillar of frenzy or is there too much snow at the base?? would any pitches be wet if i climbed it in a week and a half?


There's usually a pile of snow at the base of the central pillar, even a little bergschrund that requires hopping over. Wipe your rock shoes off on your pants as you step onto the rock. The snow pile shouldn't be too big this year...


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By thecornyman
From Oakland, CA
Mar 27, 2012
me on illusion dweller

Not for Central Pillar, (since you rap it) but for other MC routes you have to think about the decent gully having snow in it. Even with low snow levels the rap anchors might be hard to find. At least bring some webbing and rap rings.


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By Greg Barnes
Mar 27, 2012
Hanging out with Karin on the summit of Warlock Needle. Photo by Josh Janes.

There was a major rockfall over there recently, here's a thread with extensive info. We were lucky that Roger & other ASCA rebolters didn't get hit, and Mikey Schaefer was even luckier since his project got hit when he wasn't working it.

www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1552021&tn=0&>>>

As far as the route, I know one person who attempted Smith/Crawford and backed off due to difficulty, bad bolts & runouts - on the "easy" pitches. The bolts are now replaced but the other two factors are still there! Expect old-school granite slab climbing by two of the masters of the game.


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By john strand
From southern colo
Mar 27, 2012

I tired S/C bitd and found it very demanding and that was before the crux pitches.tremendous climbing though.

How about the Ticket ?


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By Nick Barczak
Mar 27, 2012
...

If you're going to be hitting up challenging things on M.C., I'd suggest the Bircheff-Williams. I haven't done it, but took a good gander as I was rappelling down it after climbing CPoF. First pitch looks amazing!


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