First time valley trip coming soon, looking for some entertaining routes, saw Smith/Crawford .11d and Crazy .11d on Middle and both look interesting.
Anyone climb these or have any suggestions on where to find info? I know there are a lot more moderate routes around, just curious about these, information seems scarce.
Don Reid's Falcon Guide 'Yosemite Free Climbs' has topos and rack reccomendations for both those routes. Pages 298, 299. I just bought a copy for $15 off Amazon.com a while back.
would it be a good time to hit up central pillar of frenzy or is there too much snow at the base?? would any pitches be wet if i climbed it in a week and a half?
would it be a good time to hit up central pillar of frenzy or is there too much snow at the base?? would any pitches be wet if i climbed it in a week and a half?
There's usually a pile of snow at the base of the central pillar, even a little bergschrund that requires hopping over. Wipe your rock shoes off on your pants as you step onto the rock. The snow pile shouldn't be too big this year...
Not for Central Pillar, (since you rap it) but for other MC routes you have to think about the decent gully having snow in it. Even with low snow levels the rap anchors might be hard to find. At least bring some webbing and rap rings.
There was a major rockfall over there recently, here's a thread with extensive info. We were lucky that Roger & other ASCA rebolters didn't get hit, and Mikey Schaefer was even luckier since his project got hit when he wasn't working it.
As far as the route, I know one person who attempted Smith/Crawford and backed off due to difficulty, bad bolts & runouts - on the "easy" pitches. The bolts are now replaced but the other two factors are still there! Expect old-school granite slab climbing by two of the masters of the game.
If you're going to be hitting up challenging things on M.C., I'd suggest the Bircheff-Williams. I haven't done it, but took a good gander as I was rappelling down it after climbing CPoF. First pitch looks amazing!