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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Hidden Valley Area
> Hidden Valley C…
> Old Woman
> Old Woman - W Face
Middle Band
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 1.5 from 2
votes
Routes in The Old Woman - West Face
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Band Saw T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Bridwell-Sustad T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cavity, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dandelion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dandelion Stem TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dandelion Wine TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dogleg T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Double Cross T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Double Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Iron Man's Traverse T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Little Old Lady T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lower Band T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Middle Band T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Northwest Chimney T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Orphan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Route 499 T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sexy Grandma S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sexy Grandpa T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Treinte Anos T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 165 ft (50 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | John Wolfe, 1969, FFA: Bill Antel and Kim Cooper, 1973 |
| Page Views: | 1,580 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | climberz on Jul 26, 2007 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Climb up a crack/ramp 10 feet to the base of the left facing corner. Climb 5 feet with no pro to reach the bolt -there are no hand holds and loose, grainy, rock for the feet. Scary! Stick clip? Bust moves up into horizontal, place hand sized gear, get scared and pumped, hand traverse left to place a old #4 camalot for protecting crux. Tell your belayer to put on goggles, then heal-hook and hand traverse the pumpy, flat, edge with kitty litter for feet. This was very hard! I failed on lead and when I top-roped this section from sexy grandma anchor. NO feet, they keep falling off. Makes a nice rain sound though. Continue traversing on much easier ground to the top of Dogleg. I did it in one pitch but had henious ropedrag. The follower would probably like the tighter belay possible with an intermediate anchor. I thought this climb looked cool. It does, but I would not recommend it, except for a good laugh. Covers a lot of ground on the old woman though.
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