|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 200'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Patrick M. on Jun 11, 2012|
|Seasonal Raptor Closure at Black Wall MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Middle Ages||Add Comment|
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By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Nov 4, 2012
|I led the first pitch yesterday and thought is was quite a nice route. Definitely varied in technique with some thin crack, wider crack, stem, layback, and even a mantle. Personally I thought the first section protected just fine with small nuts. A nice full value pitch.|
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 12, 2013
The second pitch: Continue straight up from first pitch on a ledge to some mantles to an angled ledge all the while while aiming for the obvious crack. You are now facing a pull over a bulge with undercut knob feet, small incuts for hands, and a single point of protection to avoid a ledge deck and that you really, really, really hope will hold (and that you probably only have in the first place if your tall-ish and can place it: yellow metolius mastercam). Yeah. Totally 5.8, baby ;). You pull the bulge to a jug you match on before breathing a sigh of relief. Much more challenging than the first in terms of both difficulty and head space concerns.
After this you have gained a crack ranging from fingers to hands and then a choice of bolted exits either following two bolts left or one bolt right and up. If you are like me, you racked up entirely with sport draws to link the pitch together and are now suffering heinous rope drag.
From the rap anchor (a little scrambly to access) you can make a single 70m rope rappel to get off the top.